Return journey to Mumbai from Burhanpur

Friday, July 7, 2017

After visiting the Graves of Tota Maina, we were dropped to the main road. Mr. Taide, helped us get a rickshaw to Hotel Madhuvan. 

Lunch at Sattar Mutton Hotel

Sattar Mutton Hotel

The rickshaw don't function as per metre and can charge you any amount. Be ready to bargain to get the best deal. The rickshaw driver initially quoted Rs. 140, but when Mr.Taide intervened, he had to settle for Rs.70.

He took us via the narrow bylanes and finally dropped us at Hotel Madhuvan. The time was around 1:15 PM on my watch.

Falooda at Khan Bhai Coldrinks

Khan Bhai Coldrinks

We still had Ahukhana, Gurudwara, Jama Masjid Gosiwada Zainabad, Chudhi Wali Masjid. We couldn't cover these places in the next five hours. So we decided to take the rest of the day off. 

We had a hearty meal at Sattar Mutton Hotel. Followed by Falooda at Khan Bhai Colddrinks. The Falooda was at par with the one I had at Badshah near Crawford market in Mumbai.

That's us on a Tonga

The tonga

We picked up some mutton samosa and mutton cutlet for our return journey.

Fathima wanted to travel by Tonga (horse cart) back to Burhanpur Railway Station. Tonga bought back memories of the Tonga ride I had at Jaora in Madhya Pradesh. To which I readily agreed. We paid Rs.50 for the ride. It took us a little less than 30 minutes to reach Burhanpur Railways station.

We located the national flag swaying in the wind while travelling in the tonga.

At the station we learnt that our train to Mumbai. Kushinagar Express is delayed by an hour's time. Meaning the train would leave at 7:20 PM instead of 6:20 PM.

We picked up some Paratha's and Mawa Kali Jalebi and the Kali Jalebi for dessert post our dinner on the train.

The Kushinagar Express finally arrived at 7:20 PM at Burhanpur Railway Station. It halted just for 2 minutes and then departed. We boarded our compartment, the train compartment was dirty. I guess the people have made it dirty . Not sure why people, do such things.

Kaala Jalebi, finger licking good

We ate our dinner and then we went off to sleep Early to bed, early to rise. The train terminated at Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) at 3:44 AM. Though the train was late at Burhanpur, it reached LTT on time.

I was so happy that we got to see so many new places in Madhya Pradesh. All this at a total cost of just Rs.4k .

Stay tuned for our next trip to Burhanpur to cover all the places we skipped on this trip

Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh in India

Monday, April 24, 2017

Burhanpur is a small city in Madhya Pradesh. It is around 500 KM away from Mumbai city in Maharashtra. It is located very close to the Maharashtra Madhya Pradesh border.

Burhanpur was ruled by various dynasties in the course of time. Rashtrakuta Dynasty, The Faruqi Dynasty, The Moghuls and finally the Marathas. 

There are a lot of historical sites in and around Burhanpur which are a must of history lovers. 

The important places are Asirgarh fort, Shahi Qila, Kundi Bhandara, Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Burhanpur is known for its textile industry. As we travelled in the interiors of the city, we could hear the sound of the machines. Most houses have power looms within their premises. Small scale industries.

Fathima told me that entry and exit from Burhanpur town is via a Darwaza. Meaning the entire town is built in fort like premises with walls surrounding it. Interesting . Something similar to Vasai fort near Mumbai. 

Burhanpur has got both retail and wholesale shops, selling clothes, grains and other articles. 

There are many places to stay and eat here. We stayed at Hotel Madhuvan (lodging only). The food in Burhanpur is extremely cheap and good. We tried at Rehmaniya Restaurant and Sattar Mutton Hotel. They serve both Veg and Non Veg (Chicken and Mutton). What about beef? I asked.

The hotels won't serve you beef but the roadside small sizes eateries will serve you beef samosa and beef cutlet. Yummy and very economical cost wise. No side effects on the next day either. 

The beef will surely make my trip complete. Jaora is another city in Madhya Pradesh where I went crazy eating beef. 

As we had come from Mumbai, we had a tough time getting signals on our Vodafone SIM cards in and around Burhanpur. 

We had a few more places on our itinerary for the next day.

Jaora, History of Jaora

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

We kick started the very same day by visiting the Dargah's in its premises.

A little bit of history for starters. Mohsin is well versed with the history of this place. So he was both my guide and historian on this journey.

As per him, this shrine of Hussain Tekri was built by the Nawab of Jaora, Mohammad Iftikhar Ali Khan Bahadur, in the 19th century, situated on the outskirts of Jaora town in the Ratlam district of Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh, India.

The Nawab was buried in the same graveyard where Hussain Tekri was built.

Thousands of people from all over the world visit these shrines. 

He introduced me to a term called "Hajri", Hajri means to pay a visit. People who are mentally sick visit this place in large numbers to relieve themselves from being possessed by Jinns, Ghosts and Demons. The best thing is that there is no human involved here. These demon creatures have long dialogue with the Deities in the shrines, and finally surrender and leave the bodies of the victims. 

To read about Shrines of Hussain Tekri     

Jaora, Tum Tum to Hussain Tekri

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

We were out of the train and into a Tum Tum to take us to Hussain Tekri.  To read about Train to Jaora. We divided ourselves amongst the two rickshaws [Tum Tum]. One went to Hussain Tekri the other did a de tour, to buy beef samosa and kebab for breakfast. Beef Samosa. This is the gate to heaven is what I said to myself.

Jaora Railway Station

 After shopping for breakfast we headed off to Hussain Tekri. Mohsin had made arrangements for us to stay at one of the lodges here. The journey was a bumpy ride over the narrow roads. I guess this is the case with all roads in the villages. These roads can give you a severe backache. But if you are used to it then Aal is Wel. I personally didn't get any backaches in this journey.

Tum Tum

We had divided ourselves into three rooms. Don’t expect state of the art lodges here. This place is full of lodges to accommodate people who come here from every part of the country.

Tum Tum

Most of them are one storey lodges which can accommodate around 20 rooms, the rooms in these lodges are not very big but most have inbuilt restrooms. Hot water is provided at request 24*7. The lodges’ don’t have arrangement for food, so you have to eat food in the eateries outside the lodge.

Shop selling Beef Samosa

Our restroom was not attached and to top it, it had Indian commode. Now I am not used to it, but by the end of our trip, I got myself used to it. "I am so flexible" I said to myself.

Hussain Tekri

Jaora, Return Journey

Sunday, July 27, 2014

My return journey was again by the same train which bought me here i.e. Udaipur Express. The train was to arrive at Jaora Station at 2:44 AM, only to arrive at Borivali Station at 1:47 PM the next morning.

Mohsin his brothers and Satish came to see me off.

I kick started my journey by sleeping. As I am not used to sleeping in the train a small jerk would awake me, but finally sleep had taken over.

The next morning when I had woken up the train had reached Bharuch. We were a long way from home.

A few of Krishna’s bhakts had their seats next to mine. They sang, played their musical instruments and danced the entire journey in that compartment till we reached Borivali. Their music was soothing to my ears, but when I took out my camera, they weren’t very happy so I immediately put it back inside.

Finally I was at Borivali station. My Jaora trip had officially come to an end. I was a bit unhappy in my initial days at Hussain Tekri as I couldn’t travel but Sujapur and  Bhora Mangra made my trip worth it. To top it beef spiced up the entire journey.

I am thankful to Mohsin and his family for the hospitality they have shown towards me.  I dedicate this blog post to him.      

Jaora, Sujapur

Thursday, July 24, 2014

The first place we went to this village called Sujapur.

Mohsin had made arrangements for us to travel by a Rickshaw to Sujapur. It is a few km away from Hussein Tekri. Why Sujapur, there is a small Dargah atop a hill. The Dulha Dawal Shah Dargah.

We exited the highway on the small village road leading to Sujapur. We were greeted with lush green fields, mango trees, windmills and to top it cool winds in the afternoon. Windmills, not one, not two but beyond count. A small road leads to the base village of the Dargah in Sujapur. Though the road is made of tar it is still uneven.

The village is very scenic. A cluster of houses make up the village. Farming is the main profession here. The village has both Muslim and Hindu communities staying together. National Integration, I am loving it. You will be eager t know, how I know this, there is a temple and Dargah in its premises.

A series of steps leads to the hilltop which offers mind blowing view of the place. Climbing the steps will test your knees to the core. But if you have knee issues, you need not worry as uneven tar road will take you to the top.

The hilltop offers a beautiful 360 degree view of the place. The cluster of houses in the villages, the windmills and the lake make a beautiful scene. This bought a smile across my face. This is one of the reasons why I came on this trip.

Mohsin and his family offered prayers in the Dargah, while my friend accompanied me on my photo session. My friend the Panasonic TZ11.

I walked to one of the windmills and got amazing photos of the sun light breaking through the clouds. Not sure what the energy is used for.

I sat under the shade of the tree, thinking how people lead a life here. I don’t mind staying in a village. It will for sure heal me from the mobile phone illness cut me off social media sites.  Though the life they lead is difficult as compared to us urbanites. But that doesn’t stop them. They have been living it and will continue to live it.  

There is a school in the village, so the children are going to school to study which is a good sign. Literacy rate is going up; again that brings a smile across my face.

Sometimes we should keep mother earth the way it is. It serves a refreshing break to us urbanites.  Even in the city of Mumbai we have hillocks which are either demolished or soon to be demolished to make way for skyscrapers.  But most of them go unoccupied as the people have no buying capacity. Then what’s the use of erasing the hillock. Man’s Greed knows no boundaries.

Soon Mohsin’s prayer meeting was over and we then decided to head back. Again Mohsin’s brothers and I came down the stairs while the others came down the road.

On the way we did a detour to refresh ourselves in the waters. We shared the waters with a herd of buffaloes and also bikers who were washing their bikes here.

In a distance on the hill where the windmills are located I could see something in white, when I zoomed in with my camera, I saw that it was a herd of cattle grazing on the green pastures there.

Wasim, Satish and Nadeem, had a good time in the water, by the time they were out they were totally wet. So we made them sit together isolating them from us, else we would all be wet.

Soon we were on the Highway again. 

Jaora, Bhora Mangra

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Next stop was a farming village i.e Bhora Mangra. To reach it we had to move off the state highway. The tar road was replaced by a muddy patch. It took us to the Dargah. The dargah is located near the farms and the small hills near it. 

The time was 5 PM on my watch and I was hoping to get a good view of the sunset from here.

This place is again beautiful like Sujapur. Greenery as far as my eye could see.  Again a few windmills up on the hills.

A farmer was ploughing his fields with his HMT tractor. The tractor was made in 1985. I told Mohsin that he and the tractor are of the same age.

The best part is that though the tractor is 28 years old, it is still in working condition. The farmer told me that his father used to plough with it and now he does and soon will his son.

There is just one house located near the Dargah; it was the house of the farmer. There are two trees with twisted barks. Mohsin told me that when the Deity was angered he vented it out on the trees and they are twisted.

I don’t mind staying here and living a simple life. Change my profession to farming. Eat fresh produce from the farm, drink cow milk and live a healthy life. No wonder the villagers are much healthier than us, living in the cities.

As we were about to leave it was almost dusk and I managed to get some beautiful sunset photos. 

Jaora, Poor Vehicles

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

I hope these poor vehicles get a make over at Pimp My Ride. This team is known to do wonders to automobiles. 

Jaora, Haveli in Jaora

Saturday, July 19, 2014

I saw this massive Haveli in Jaora. 

By the look of it, didn't look like it was occupied.

This Haveli would have looked splendid in its glory days, but now see the state of it.

Good spot to shoot a horrow movie, what say?

Jaora, People photography in Jaora

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Jaora, The Horse Ride

Sunday, July 13, 2014

Mohsin had informed me that one of his cousins here has a horse and is one of the best horsemen.

I immediately informed him that I would not only love to sit in his horse cart but also ride it, if given a chance.

Finally Ahmed arrived with his horse cart. The cart and the horse looked vintage. As the horse moved along the roads the people looked as us.

We felt nice sitting in the horse cart while people around us zoomed in their cars but all eyes were on us. Gave me Celebrity like feeling that too on a horse cart.

Riding a horse cart is very difficult, though Ahmed drives it with ease. I tried my hands on it and found out how difficult it actually is.

Thanks Mohsin my Jinn for full filling my wish.

Jaora, Bheja Fry with Rumali Roti

Saturday, July 12, 2014

This perhaps the best Bheja Fry I had, till date. It was made of Bheja, deep fried in Beef gravy. Served hot with Rumali Roti.

For a change there was no egg in it. Though I have always had it with Egg. 

It was finger lickng good. I liked it so much that I had aa second serving of it.

Price is Rs. 20 for the below served across Hussain Tekri. 

Jaora, cylinders stacked near the road

Friday, July 11, 2014

Cylinders chained and held captive near one of the roads in Jaora.

No one was around to watch over them. 

Good time to make a quick steal, but you can't steal one, instead you have to take them all. Now that is going to be quiet a task.

Jaora, Water Tanker

A water tanker attached to a Tractor. The wheels of the tractor are beautifully painted to match the body of the tractor. Nice paintings on the water tanker also. 

Jaora, Dargah in the City of Jaora

Thursday, July 10, 2014

We took the services of a Tum Tum driven by Shah Rukh to explore the city. We came across this structure made of red stone with fortification around it.

One look at the structure and it gives, a eerry feeling.

It was old and unmaintained and so had creepers growing all around it. It had a huge wooden door which was locked. A small chor darwaza lets one inside it. The windows of it were beautifully carved. The architecture reminded me of the forts in Rajasthan.

There is a dargah in its premises.

We sat in its premises for a couple of minutes. I felt nice sitting here. The sound of the birds chirping, the sound of the leaves swaying in the wind was music to my ears. A few squirrel in the premises kept moving freely though we humans were next to it. They had no fear at all.

Shahrukh didn’t let me go to the top storey stating that the Jinns exist there. So I stayed put.

To which Mohsin corrected him that there are no Jinns, but as there is a heavy growth of trees there are snakes. Now I don’t know which of them is true, but I still stayed put.