Tung Fort or Kathingad near Pawna Lake in Lonavala

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Tung Fort is located in Lonavala which is easily accessible from both Mumbai and Pune by rail and road. It is located very near to the Pawna Lake. The forts of Tikona, Lohgad and Visapur can be seen from atop the fort. The fort is also called Kathingad. Which means difficult. Read on to understand how difficult it is to climb this fort. 

Infomation on Tung Fort

We had planned to visit Tung Fort along with Karla Caves, Bedse Caves and Tikona Fort. But due to shortage of time we had to skip it. 

We then decided to club it along with the twin forts of Shrivardhan and Manaranjan at Rajmachi along with camping at the banks of Pawna Lake. But had to abandon the camping part of it and so set out to visit the twin forts of Rajmachi and Tung Fort.

Tung Fort from the foothills

As decided we (Dominic and Me) met Manohar at Ghatkopar Railway station on the east side at 8 AM. We then headed over to Lonavala to conquer the three forts.

It was a day trip and we decided to do the twin forts of Rajmachi first followed by Tung Fort.

The temple at the foothills of Tung Fort

Now there are two ways of reaching Rajmachi, one is from Karjat via the Kondana Caves which is a proper trek and the other is from Lonavala via the road leading to Della Adventures which goes to the base village at Rajmachi. 

As we were travelling by car we decided to take the road to Rajmachi via Della Adventure. 

Hanuman Temple on the way to the fort

We had taken the New Mumbai Pune Expressway then exited it at Lonavala and then took the road to Della Adventure. Sign boards are put, so follow them. The quality of the road is not very good and it worsens once you cross Della Adventure. The road then turns into a muddy patch full of small stones so driving on them is quite a task for small cars. A roller coaster ride. Now we had to decide, do we go up this way or do Tung. As the road was bad, it would consume a lot of time. 

Fortification and steep stairs to reach Tung Fort

Parking our car there and walking it up to the base was also not a option as the stretch was approximately 15 KM away so it would take around 3 hours to reach the base village at Rajmachi. Then climb up the twin forts, lunch and back to the car park.That would consume a lot of time.

Fortification

Trucks Tempos and SUV would make it to the top, but not small cars. We then abandoned the plan of visiting Rajmachi forts and headed off to Tung Fort. The time was now 11 AM on my watch.

Tung fort was approximately 30 KM away from here. 

We then headed over to Lonavala. Did shopping for fudge and chikki there and then headed over to Tung Fort. We traveled by the Lonavala Road then the Javan Tungi Road to reach the base of Tung.

View of Pawna Lake from atop the fort

The Javan Tungi Road was better than the road to Rajmachi. Though a tar road but was uneven, again we had to drive slowly so it consumed quite some time on the narrow and winding roads and finally we saw a small miniature board leading to Tung Fort. we followed that board and finally were at the base of the fort. There was a temple here, but couldn't locate any base village. Though we could hear children shouting in a distance, so we assumed that there is a village nearby. Tungi Village.

Bastion on Tung Fort

There are no shops on the Javan Tungi Road. So stock up food and water at Lonavala itself or at Tiger Point.

We had cakes near the temple. This was our first food intake on the trip. So we had plenty of them, lunch would only be served at Lonavala, that to after 3 hours.

Top most point on the fort

At 1 AM, with the hot sun shining on our heads we headed off to climb the fort.  There was a board put up there stating Kathingad. A few locals were there, I decided to ask them the grade and they told me it was difficult. Never the less we still headed off to climb the fort.

Rock cut water tank on the fort premises

As we were near the base, it was a straight vertical climb up the fort. Though it has small steps in the beginning which were later replaced by small and large rocks all the way up. We crossed a small Hanuman Temple. A ziz zag road led to the top. In a matter of 30 minutes we were around 50% up the hill. This place offered a beautiful view of Tungi village and the surrounding hill ranges along with Pawna Lake. 

We kept walking on the trail at the edge of the cliff and finally were at the entrance of the fort. It had a Darwaza and fortification. 

Dominic, Manohar and Me

Tung fort is basically conical in shape when you see it from Tikona Fort located on the other side of Pawna Lake. When we were travelling back from Tikona we were wondering as to how we would be able to conquer it, the shape was very unusual.

Tung fort comprises of three plateaus, the first one has a bastion on it, the second one has the main door to enter the fort, the Ganpati temple and water cistern, the third one houses the Balle Kille and water tanks.

That's me

We decided to skip the bastion on  the lower most plateau as we could see it from here. 

On the second plateau is located a Ganpati temple and a water cistern which is cut from the rock. The water in it is not portable. 

Another view from the top of Tung Fort

We then headed off to the third plateau from where lead the way to the top most point of the fort. Finally we were on the top. The time was now 2 PM on my watch. 

The top has a small temple dedicated to Devi Tungi apart from a couple of orange colored flags swaying in the wind. 

Another view from Tung Fort

We took a couple of selfies and landscape photos here. Though it was hot, we were not able to feel the heat as there was strong wind blowing. We didn't break a sweat either. Only problem is, there is no shade here. Suddenly Dom located a small cave, big enough to accommodate 7 people. It is right below the top most point. 

Tikona, Lohgad and Visapur Fort were clearly visible from here. Pawna Lake nicely twisted around Tung Fort. There were other hill ranges also in a distance. Finally we located the Tung Village which is not at the base of the fort. 

Manohar and Me descending Tung Fort

History states that this fort was built by Adil Shah and later conquered by Shivaji. Though this fort is small, my understanding states that this should be a watchtower for the two massive forts of Lohgad and Visapur. 

Not much of fortification is left on the hill. except for the main entrance, but the huge rocks from a distance camouflage as  fortification. 

We then decided to descend the fort, in an hour's time we were back at the base. Though this fort is called Kathingad, there is nothing difficult about it. It took us around 2:45 hours to see the fort. 

Watch out for this signboard on the Javan Tungi Road

We then headed off the Javan Tungi road to Lonavala. 

We decided to break at Allah Rakha Hookah and Restaurant near Tiger Point for lunch. As they were the only ones serving lunch at 4:30 PM. 

Had lunch in the form of Veg Kolhapuri , Butter Chicken and Roti's and finally headed back to Mumbai.

Finally at 7:30 PM we were back at Ghatkopar Railway Station. 

Though the trip was exhaustive and tiring, thanks to the hot sun, we still managed to have a great time as always. 

Thanks Manohar and Dom :)

Karla Caves in Karli near Lonavala in Maharashtra

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Karla Caves or Karle Caves are located in Karli near Lonavala, in Maharashtra. Ekvira Devi Temple is located in the cave premises. The caves can be accessed by road both from Mumbai and Pune (cities in Maharashtra). Closest rail station being Lonavala Railway station.

Dominic, Manohar and Me in one of the viharas or dwelling place

Our original plan was to do a overnight trek to Karla Caves, Bedse Caves, Tikona Fort, Tung Fort and finally camp for the night near Pawna Lake. Our backup plan was to visit Rajmachi Fort in Lonavala. But till the last 10 hours we were unsure as to where we were headed.

View of Karli Village from the Karla Caves premises

Finally Dominic who had  accompanied Manohar and Me on our trip to Wai, gave the final nod and the very next morning we planned to visit Karla Caves, Bedse Caves, Tikona Fort and Tung Fort. 

We planned to go by car as ST buses and public transport is not very good around Lonavala, also the places we will be going are distant from each other. So a car tripping will help save on time.

Another view of Karli Village

As decided we met at Ghatkopar Railway station at 6 AM. We were greeted by rain showers. Rain in the month of March is very unusual. I guess this is the sign of global warming.

Other caves in its premises

Mumbai - Panvel - Mumbai Pune Expressway - Lonavala - Old Mumbai Pune Highway -  Ekvira Devi Road. This is the route we took. Google Maps are available for the same.

We had breakfast in the form of vada pav at the food court on the Mumbai Pune Expressway at 9 AM. 

Sculpture in one of the caves

There is an entry fee of Rs.30 to visit the village. From the village starts the round and winding road uphill to the base of the caves. The roads here are very narrow and steep so see to it that you drive in gear one and don't race uphill.

The big pillar with the four lions of Ashoka outside the main cave

The roads offer a beautiful view of the villages below, the mountain ranges in a distance and fields around. Sadly we couldn't stop on the way else we would have gone down the hill.

Carvings on Karla Caves

After paying parking fee of Rs.10 we set out to visit the caves. A series of steep steps, leads to the top of the caves. These steps did test our calves and knees. So take sufficient breaks while you climbing up. There are souvenir shops on either side of the road, selling articles of worship, restaurants, toys and local sweets. 

Beautifully carved entrance to the Karla Caves

Finally we reached the caves. Entry fee for the caves is Rs.5 for Indians for Rs.100 for foreigners. To his Manohar commented, "And we talk of racism." LOL.

Carvings on Karla Caves

There are around seven caves in its premises. Nothing much to see in the initial ones. Certain caves are located on the first level and second level also. But entry to these is not possible  as it is either locked or weeds placed on the stairs making it difficult to move up.

Surely something might have happened in the past due to which this restriction is imposed.

The vihara's or the dwelling place of the monks, were rooms built by the monks to mediate. The floor of the rooms was uneven, They had to sit on them for hours to mediate. I tried sitting on it and my bum started paining in 5 minutes, wondering how they would have sat for hours at a stretch. The room will also consist of a rock cut elevated bed. Meant for sleeping. 

Dominic, Manohar and Me

The place where the Karla Caves are carved is not the highest point on the hill. There is a small tiny road going uphill which takes one to the top. But entry here is restricted and there is a guard manning it. But this place offers a beautiful view of Karli Village and the surrounding hills. 

The Ekvira Devi Temple is located outside the main and the most beautifully crafted cave among st them all. 

The stupa in the centre with the wooden umbrella atop it, parallel pillars with carvings atop it and the wooden arches on the ceiling

There are lots of devotees at Ekvira Devi Temple. So there is crowd around the main cave. The Ekvira Devi Temple is old but not as old as the Main Cave.

Outside the Main Cave (Chaitya or prayer hall) is a huge pillar with the four lions of Ashoka on it. Though I have been to many Buddhist Caves in the past, this is a rare sighting.

Carvings atop the pillars with inscription on them

The Cave is huge both in length and breadth. They have put net on most parts of the caves so that it obstructs bats and birds from entering its premises, who dirty the place with their droppings. Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves near Aurangabad, they too have nets all over the place.

The elephants, whose tusks have fallen, the carvings of the couple, Buddha mediating and carvings in the shape of a arc are beautiful. There are horse shoe shaped arch carved on the walls of the Chaitya. Similar to the Chaitya at Bedse Caves.

Inscription on the pillars

Inside the premises is a huge stupa with a wooden umbrella atop it. I haven't seen this in any of the other caves I have visited so far.

The parallel pillars leading to the stupa are beautifully carved at the top. A design which is uniform on all the pillars. We also located certain symbols on the pillars. There are writings both in Pali and Sanskrit on the pillars, as confirmed by Manohar.

Stupa with a wooden umbrella atop it

The top of the caves is made of wooden arches. It is surprising that it has survived all these years. 

It really feels nice in these caves. It took us back in time and we started discussing history. I loved history in my schooling days. But what is worth knowing is the handwork that has gone in designing these caves over the years. The Buddhist monks had to cut out huge portions of the rock so that the place could be built. For example to make the Elephants trunk, they have to remove the rock around it. As confirmed by Manohar.

The Karla Caves are maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) These caves were built between 2nd century BC to 2nd century AD

Though the Buddhist built these caves to mediate there is a huge crowd at this cave, mainly the devotees at Ekvira Devi Temple. So it is difficult to be at peace in this cave.

We the headed off to see Bedse Caves the second on out itinerary. 

Kondana Caves aka Kondivade Caves in Karjat

Monday, April 20, 2015

Kondana Caves aka Kondivade Caves is located at Thakurwadi and not at Kondana or Kondivade in Karjat. They were built by the Buddhist monks.  The caves are located in the same hill range as Rajmachi. They can be accessed both from Karjat and Lonavala.

Hillrange from Kondivade Village

After visiting the Shiva Temple at Ambernath we headed over to Karjat to visit the Kondana Caves.  

The Ambernath railway station was jam packed with people. Though the trains were on time,  the less number of trains led to the crowd ever increasing this time.  

Buffaloes bathing in Ulhas river

We boarded the 10:17 AM train to Karjat.  Note that trains are every 30 minutes from Ambernath to Karjat.  It took us around 40 minutes to reach Karjat railway station.  Also another thing which I noted is that the railway stations between Ambernath and Karjat are far away from each other.  Commuting will always be a problem, while travelling between these stations. 

Kondana Caves

Once we reached Karjat, we decided to have the famous Karjat Vada Pav,  packed vada's, mixed bhajiya for lunch while trekking the Kondana Caves.  We wanted to have some Lassi,  sadly none of the milk dairy stacked Lassi,  so we has to have Gola and lemon juice.  Which was a great refresher on a hot sunny day.  

Another view of Kondana Caves

We then followed the instructions provided by the locals and walked for about 15 minutes to reach Shriram Pool,  the place from where we were to get a Tum Tum to Kondivade Village.  

If you hiring a private tum tum,  it will cost you around 200 bucks,  else shared seat will cost you Rs. 30 only. As it was just the two of us,  we decided to take Rs. 30 option. The tum tum terminates at Kondivade Village.  The private tum tum terminates at Thakurwadi village. 

Main hall at Kondana Caves

 We alighted at Kondivade village and followed the instructions of the locals and started walking on the tar road. Kondivade village -  Kondana village - Thakurwadi village.  The caves are located near Thakurwadi village.    It took us around an hours time to reach Thakurwadi village.  The roads are not very good here.  So if you getting your car along,  see to it,  that it has a high ground clearance.

Carvings

The one hour walk in the hot sun was exhaustive. But it offered a beautiful view of the hill ranges around,  Rajmachi fort and Ulhas river which flows next to the road. Saw a couple of women washing clothes in the river.  The river was not very deep in certain portions and hence saw a couple of buffaloes bathing in it too. I guess it was the heat. This place would look wonderful in the rains, greenery all around.

Apart from Kondivade Village, Kondana village, has a small shop that offers refreshments,  no refreshments at Thakurwadi village.  Each of these villages are small consisting of around houses ranging from 10 to 20.

Another view of Kondana Caves

A muddy path, the first left after you cross Thakurwadi village leads to the Kondana Caves.  again there are no sign boards placed here.  So my advise is to follow the most traveled path,  you will also see wafer and chocolate wrappers along the way.  Means that you are not the right path.  The path is like a rollercoaster ride,  on the edge of the cliff and on flat plateau. It is made of loose soil. So be careful while trekking uphill and downhill. 

Mike and Me

As the sun was right over our head,  we were feeling the heat,  our water resource was also depleting. After a couple of breaks and having kandha bhajiya as food we started to explore the caves.  

In a matter of 30 minutes we could locate the caves.  Sign of relief.  We finally made it. 

Resting rooms in the Caves

Just 4 to 5 caves here. out of which the second cave was beautifully carved. It had a Stupa in it, which is currently broken down along with pillars around. There are two wooden arches too. 

Next to it is another cave, which can be reached by climbing the steps, it had many rooms in it. Each of the rooms had a flat bed like structure made of stone. I believe this was the resting place for the Buddhist monks who carved these caves. There is water seepage in the caves, as the floor of the caves was still moist. 

Water cistern in the Caves

There are two other caves, but nothing much to see in them. The last cave was a water cistern. Water was currently filled in it. not sure if it was fit for consumption.

Its fun to come here in the rains, reason being , you can enjoy the waterfall that happens over the caves. But due to this waterfall the carvings are getting eroded. The Govt should work on the up keeping of these caves.  

Scenic view of Rajmachi

After having our lunch in the form of vada's and kandha bhajiya we rested in the cool shade of trees. The birds chirping and the sound of the leaves swaying in the winds was music to my ears. 

We then decided to head back to Mumbai. From Kondana Caves, there is a trail that leads to Rajmachi Fort. Now it would take around 3 to 4 hours to reach the top from here. 

Waterbodies

We reached Thakurwadi village in 20 minutes, walked for an hour's time to reach Kondivade Village to board the shared tum tum to Karjat.

Tum Tum

Though we were tired, trekking in the hot sun, this journey was fun.

Looking forward to Mumbra Devi Temple tomorrow.