Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh in India

Monday, April 24, 2017

Burhanpur is a small city in Madhya Pradesh. It is around 500 KM away from Mumbai city in Maharashtra. It is located very close to the Maharashtra Madhya Pradesh border.

Burhanpur was ruled by various dynasties in the course of time. Rashtrakuta Dynasty, The Faruqi Dynasty, The Moghuls and finally the Marathas. 

There are a lot of historical sites in and around Burhanpur which are a must of history lovers. 

The important places are Asirgarh fort, Shahi Qila, Kundi Bhandara, Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Burhanpur is known for its textile industry. As we travelled in the interiors of the city, we could hear the sound of the machines. Most houses have power looms within their premises. Small scale industries.

Fathima told me that entry and exit from Burhanpur town is via a Darwaza. Meaning the entire town is built in fort like premises with walls surrounding it. Interesting . Something similar to Vasai fort near Mumbai. 

Burhanpur has got both retail and wholesale shops, selling clothes, grains and other articles. 

There are many places to stay and eat here. We stayed at Hotel Madhuvan (lodging only). The food in Burhanpur is extremely cheap and good. We tried at Rehmaniya Restaurant and Sattar Mutton Hotel. They serve both Veg and Non Veg (Chicken and Mutton). What about beef? I asked.

The hotels won't serve you beef but the roadside small sizes eateries will serve you beef samosa and beef cutlet. Yummy and very economical cost wise. No side effects on the next day either. 

The beef will surely make my trip complete. Jaora is another city in Madhya Pradesh where I went crazy eating beef. 

As we had come from Mumbai, we had a tough time getting signals on our Vodafone SIM cards in and around Burhanpur. 

We had a few more places on our itinerary for the next day.

Dargah-e-hakimi located in Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, April 17, 2017

Dargah-e-Hakimi is located in  Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Dargah-e-Hakimi road to reach it.
After being disappointed at Kundi Bhandara, we travelled around 7 KM to reach Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Syedi Abdul Qadir Hakimuddin (1665 - 1730 AD) is the holy saint of the Bora Community. He was buried in Burhanpur. His grave is visited by pilgrims all year round. 

The Dargah-e-Hakimi complex comprises of Mosque, gardens and accommodation for the pilgrims. 

Dargah-e-hakimi

Non Bora Community members are also allowed in the Dargah premises. They have to cover their heads. The Dargah premises was packed with people. 

The domes of the Mosque's are beautifully designed. All the three mosques are white in color. The white colored mosque and the blue color skies made the picture perfect.

Though there were so many people seated there, not a sound could I hear. There was silence. A nice place to be at peace with oneself. 

After Fathima offered prayers, we then headed out of the premises to have some snacks in the form of samosa's and meat cutlets. 

The time was 6 PM on my watch and we had to hunt for a place to stay for the night. We decided to head to Burhanpur town for accommodation. 

After checking a couple of places we finally settled down for Hotel Madhuvan located very close to the Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur. 

The rooms were not that great.But that didn't bother us much as we are travelers and we were there to visit historical sites, instead of staying in the room. The room cost was Rs.600 for a double bed non AC. We didn't take AC rooms as it was cold there. The good thing about this hotel is that the checkout time is 24 hours from the time one checks in. Nice na. As we checked in at 6:30 PM on Friday evening, we were to checkout at 6:30 PM on Saturday evening. 

We paid the rickshaw driver Rs.1200 for showing us around.

Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Kundi Bhandara is located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Kundi Bhandara Road to reach it. 

Information on Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

After visiting Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri, we headed by rickshaw to Kundi Bhandara. The route details are tagged on Google maps. It is around 14 KM away. Though it is much closer from Burhanpur. 
As we were approaching this place,  the rickshaw driver showed us small wells by the side of the roads. He informed us that there are many such wells around Burhanpur. There are a total of 103 wells. The first one is for Air and the others for water. The depth of these wells ranges from 30 feet to 80 feet.

We saw these unknown tombs on the way to Kundi Bhandara

The Kundi Bhandara aka underground water management and distribution system, was formed when Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana in 1615 AD. This system of water distribution was in use in Iran and Iraq. It helped in distributing clean and pure water to the citizens of Burhanpur. 

Kundi Bhandara premises, the lift which goes underground is blue in color in the centre of the photo

Kundi Bhandara is not in use now. But it was used extensively in its hay days. i.e. atleast 3 centuries. 

Information on Kundi Bhandara

There is a small lift that takes one to the bottom of the underground system. But sadly that day it was under maintenance so we couldn't see it from the inside. I was informed by the rickshaw driver that it is dark in there and that one needs a good torch to see it. It is also filled with water. 

Wells located all over Burhanpur

Disappointed that we couldn't see it its functioning, we headed to Dargah-E-Hakimi in Burhanpur.

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, April 3, 2017

Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri is located at Boharda in Madhya Pradesh. Shahi Qila in Burhanpur is around 6.5 KM away.

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

This site is tagged on Google maps. But the approach road is not in very good condition. As we were travelling in the rickshaw it took us ages to reach there.

One has to travel by the Mohana road to reach it. The Chhatri is located very close to River Tapti. There is no civilization around the structure. It is in the middle of nowhere.

History of Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Fathima and Me at Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

There is no provision for food and water here. 

The Chhatri was constructed by Emperor Aurangzeb in honor of the memory of Raja Jai Singh. He was the commander of the Mughal Force. He died in Burhanpur. 

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The square shaped structure is built on a podium. With a fleet of stairs to reach it. The structure is open from all sides. There is a big dome surrounded by eight small domes. There are beautifully carved arched pillars supporting the domes. 

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The dome is very airy from the inside. The cool breeze makes you want to sit there and enjoy the wild vegetation around. One has to remove ones footwear to visit it. There is a caretaker for it too.
From there we traveled to Kundi Bhandara. On the way we located a couple of tombs ,  but there were no signboards, around them, making it hard to identify them.

Shahi Qila in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Saturday, April 1, 2017

Shahi Qila is a beautiful palace built by the Farooqui rulers in Burhanpur (Madhya Pradesh). It is currently in ruins. It is located very close to the River Tapti and Rajghat. It is on the Rajpura Road in Monin Pura, Burhanpur.

Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

After visiting the Tomb of Shah Nawaz Khan, the rickshaw driver brought us here. Again this Palace is tagged on Google maps. As in the city premises one can walk to this place or come by a private mode of transport. Special rickshaw are available here. 

The good thing is that there is provision for food and water outside the fort premises. There are toilets in the fort premises. 

Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

Shahi Qila was the residence of Shah Jahan. 

There is a canon painted back placed near the fort premises. 

Information on Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

There is a entry fee to visit the fort premises. The fort premise is open from sunrise to sunset to the public. 

ASI has worked on this fort premises. The inside of the fort is nice and clean. They have re built gardens in the fort premises.
Most of the structures are completely in ruins. 

Cannon at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

The fort offers a fantastic view of the Rajghat below. There are a couple of temples at the Rajghat. The River Tapti quietly flows near it. In the waters of the river Tapti, there is  a huge stone. It is painted white and it resembles a elephant. On the other side of the river are a couple of more historic monuments. One of them is Ahukhana. I am note sure of the names of the others, the rickshaw driver was not aware of them either. The monuments had tall Minarets next to them. 

The entire fort premises can be seen in 30 minutes time. 

Haman aka Royal bath at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

One of the attractions of the palace is the Haman or the Royal Bath. It was built specially by Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz. The Haman is a dome shaped stucture. I was beautifully painted on the inside. It had a small bath tub in the middle. The intricate paintings in blue are worth seeing. 

Ceiling of Haman aka Royal Bath at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

The rickshaw driver pointed at one of the paintings on the ceiling and said that it was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. He also told us that the Taj Mahal was to be built here instead of Agra. Not sure how much of it is true. 

Our rickshaw driver cum guide also showed a roadway in the fort walls that leads one directly to Rajghat.

Temples at Rajghat near Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

Shah Jahan had seven wives and Mumtaz was his fourth wife. He built the Taj Mahal for her. I wonder what he built for the other wives. 

Fathima and Me at Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

We then visited the Shahi Mosque. A wall and a Minaret is all that remains of it now.

Remains of Shahi Masjid in Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

The are a couple of other structures on the fort premises. Not sure of their names. 

Structures within Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

The fort cum palace was four storey tall. Access to the rooms within it is restricted. 

Structures within Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

Had a amazing time here, we then headed to see Raja Jai Singh Chhatri.