Elephanta Caves and Cannon HIll near Mumbai and Navi Mumbai

Monday, August 11, 2014

Michael and I were planning an outing since a long time, so that we could take some good snaps.  As it was summer time we didn't want to do a difficult trek so we settled for Elephanta Caves.

We decided to meet the next morning at 8:15 Am at Churchgate station, from there we were going to board a Taxi to The Gateway of India. We wanted to be in time to board the 9 AM ferry.

Now we had asked another friend Elroy to join us too. But sadly he couldn’t make it, so it was the two of us.

We met at Churchgate at 8:15 AM and decided to walk it out to Gateway of India.

As it was a Saturday morning, there was less traffic on the road plus it was not that hot so it was a pleasant walk to Gateway.

At 8:45 AM we were near Hotel Taj. The sky was clear and we managed to get beautiful photos of Hotel Taj and The Gateway of India.

I had read in the newspapers a couple of months ago that the Caves would be shut for maintenance purposes, but they never mentioned a date. I was hoping that it would be open.

We started asking around for the ferry to Elephanta, we managed to spot the one going to Alibag, again there was a huge crowd to board it.

Finally a man yelled in a distance, “Elephanta chi ferry aata sutnar ahe, lavkar ya” meaning the ferry to Elephanta will leave now, so if you want to board it, hurry.

We immediately rushed to the ferry, as we were right on time, no idea when the next ferry was. The ferry leaves from the front of the Gateway of India. As soon as we stepped on the ferry, it departed.  The caves are shut on Monday. The first ferry from Gateway of India to Elephanta is at 9 AM and the last ferry from Elephanta to Mumbai is at 5:30 PM

The ferry ticket cost us Rs.150, for a return trip. The ferry was packed with people, mostly locals and a few foreigners. The upper deck will cost you Rs.10 extra.  There is less shade on the upper deck, but if you want to get baked then that is the place to be.

Initially we crossed small ferry boats anchored in the waters, awaiting their turn to ferry people to either Alibag or Elephanta. Soon it was just water all around us.

To our left were some naval ships parked in a distance. I wanted to take snaps of it so rushed to the end of the ferry to which, one of the crew members advised me not to take photos of them. There is a board put up, advising you not the snap when on the ferry.

Looking as us clicking photos, a few of the people on board also started clicking photos with their camera phones. I told Michael, that we inspired the people on the ferry to take snaps.

In an hour time we were at Elephanta Jetty. From here it was a walk for around 25 minutes to reach the base of the Caves.

Elephanta Caves are also called Gharapuri Lenee, Lenee means Caves in Marathi language are located on Elephanta Island. There are two groups of caves here, the big ones as we enter are the Hindu Caves followed by the Buddhist Caves on the other side.

There is an entry fee to Elephanta Island, price being Rs.5 each. People come up with strange ways to earn a living. There is a mini train service here, which drops you to the base, but for a price. We decided to walk it out, hoping to we some good photos of the surroundings. 

It was fruitful to walk, we managed to snap, the waters, the hills and also the city of Mumbai to our right hand side and Navi Mumbai to the left.  Though there are skyscrapers on bought side, it was a bit difficult to tell what is what.  As the ferry left from Mumbai, we knew which way the city was.

We managed to get snaps of fishes in the waters and also crabs on the rocks, when we were clicking photos a family came there.  The guy introduced the crabs as kachua meaning tortoise to his family to which they readily agreed. “Tortoise, from which angle does the crab appear like a tortoise” top which we both burst out laughing.

There were shops all around selling, food articles, cold drinks and caps to beat the summer heat. We then reached the base of the caves, there are hotels here catering to the food needs of the tourists.  From here the climb begins uphill. There are neatly carved stairs which lead till the entrance of the caves.  The way up in nicely covered as there are shops on either side of the stairs, selling t-shirts and stones. None of them were of interest to us and so we headed to the top.

There are chair cars available for people who find it difficult to climb till the top. So the person has to sit on it and another two people will carry him till the top.

There are monkeys around too, I was telling Michael about an incident that happened when I went to Matheran, where I did an eye contact with the monkey and he refused to let me go. I dared Michael to do the same. To which he laughed and said “Are you mad.”

Finally we reached the entrance of the caves. Again there is a ticket to view them. Cost being Rs.10 for Indians and Rs.250 for Foreigners.  Wonder why such a big difference in price.

We took our tickets and headed off to see the first and the biggest cave in Elephanta. There are sculptors of Hindu Gods carved in it. Don’t ask me the names of the Gods, as I don’t know them myself.

Please refer to Wikipedia for history about these caves, there were huge pillars that were carved and holding the structure and the walls are carved with photos of Gods. As the caves are dark it is advisable to take a camera which is good in taking low light images to take photos. My digi camera didn’t have the feature but our smart phones did have it and so was put to use. Michael got amazing snaps with his phone, not me :(

One of the sculptures is that of the Trimurthi, now how I know this. Is the question in your mind? Simple it featured on our history books in my schooling days.

There are security guards placed all over the caves, so that people don’t get too close to the carvings. Also we are aware about a few ignorant people who love to write their names on the walls. So it’s best to have guards here to keep a watch on such people.

The sculptor in the caves was very similar to the ones I saw at Cave 16. At Ellora in Aurangabad.  The caves also feature two Shivling’s , The temples are carved in rock, one has lion like  structure outside it, guarding it and the other has huge sculptor of Gods guarding it.

In the initial days, when they were discovered these caves were not maintained and so certain sculptors have broken. But it is a good thing that ASI and UNESCO are working on maintaining what is left of them.

After checking out the caves here we then headed off to the other side to see the Buddhist Caves.  I have been to a couple of them all over Maharashtra.  The resemblance is the same.  They don’t have many carvings to display and size wise they are very small. 

Again they have a couple of pillars, this is something new I discovered, as I haven’t seen much pillar construction on Buddhist Caves.  Maybe the makers were influenced by the Hindu Cave makers. 

One of the security guys was driving the dogs and monkeys away, 

when I asked why, he informed me that the Director of ASI was going to pay a visit to these caves and they have been given strict instructions that animals are not to be seen. How can you drive an animal away when it has been there for most of its life?  Both Michael and I burst out laughing on seeing the demands of the Director of ASI.

In fact we saw a guard hurling a stone at a dog, now what if the dog turns around and catches the stone and throws it back at the security guard, I know that it is just a thought, but it will be a amazing comic sight to see, to which we both burst out laughing.

There are loo’s placed at the end of the Buddhist  Caves, though they are not in good shape, but at least you can pee there if not poop.

There is also a museum located at the ticket counter, but it was closed so we headed to see the Cannon on Cannon Hill.

After walking uphill for around 20 minutes we were finally at one of the cannons. The cannon is placed at such an angle, from where it  gets a commanding position of the land and the sea around. The cannon are not in use. But offers a wonderful of the hillside, sea and Mumbai and Navi Mumbai in a distance.

We then headed to the other identical cannon a few minutes away. Again it offers a good view of the surrounding.  After exploring both cannons we headed downhill for some lunch.

It was around 1 PM and people we climbing up in large nos. Wonder how many will reach the top with a lot of breaks. All the best to them.

We headed to Elephanta Port for lunch. Our lunch comprised of Aloo Sabzi and Chapati. The chapattis were hot and soft. Made to order. The vegetable was nicely prepared. Had a sumptuous meal here, feeling full.

We then walked our way to the ferry jetty to board a ferry to Gateway of India.

First time outing trip was Michael, great fun. What say Michael?

Shanivar Wada in Pune

Thursday, April 12, 2012

After exploring Aga Khan Palace we decided to explore Shanivar Wada, the second place on our itinerary.

We consulted some local people and, taking their advice, hailed a rickshaw to Shaniwar Wada. It took us around 30 minutes to reach Shaniwar Wada and cost us Rs 80.

Shanivar Wada

There was a huge crowd outside the fort. We wondered if they were all there to see the fort. It turned out that they were all college students out there to celebrate Tie Day and Saree Day.

I was amazed at the sight of the fortification. The huge door with spears at the entrance made the door even more amazing. Within the main door, there was a smaller door to let people in.

Having bought ourselves an entry ticket of Rs 5 to view to fort, we saw a cannon up ahead. It was still intact. We immediately ran over to get a picture.

Cannon inside the premises

There is a huge garden and some broken down structures in the premises. There were a few cannons mounted on rocks on the inside of the fort.

There is a one floor structure above the main entrance. It has two bastions next to it. We climbed up the staircase and onto the first floor. This was like a French window but with no glasses mounted on it. It has been beautifully carved out of wood and polished but has not been touched over the years. The roof was made of wood. 

View from the Bastion



The bastions had small holes in them, through which guns could be mounted for the purpose of shooting at the enemy. They also had small windows cut out in the rocks, which I guess is for the people to see where the enemy was coming from.

From here on the outside we could see the city in front of us and on the inside we could see the garden, the broken down structures and the fortification of the entire place.

There were many such bastions across the fort, and many other doors, like the Narayan Gate, Mastani Gate and Khidki Darwaja, which are currently closed to the public. The doors or Darwajas, as they are called, have the old locking systems installed on them. Even the locking systems were huge as the door was huge. These locking systems on the doors used to protect Shaniwar Wada from outside invasion.

Garden inside the premises

The entire fort is square-shaped and is placed right in the centre of the city with the walls in good condition and a road running around it.

We then started to survey the walls of the fort. The stone walls were so broad that four people could have easily walked hand in hand on it without falling down on the inside.

There are many staircases, narrow and steep, which bring us up to these walls all across the inside of the fort. The walls were used to protect the fort. Secondly, there were rooms built within the walls of the fort. These rooms have now been closed and are guarded by locked iron gates.

Walls of the Fort

I saw a lot of couples hanging around in Shaniwar Wada. Maybe all these are locked to protect the Wada from insiders, caught in the act.

There were two huge circular pillars which were built on two of the bastions. They seemed to have been added recently. As there was no guide at hand to talk about their history, I could only make speculations.

After walking and exploring the fort via the walls, we then came to the ground to explore the garden and the broken down structures around it.

Hithakshi and Me

I don’t know what this was used for, whether it was used to tie the horses or used as a stand for the fire torch, but these were placed all over the fort.

At the entrance of the garden there was a board put up giving information about the famous events that had taken place within the fort. There is one plaque which provides information about the family tree of the Peshwas who had built this fort.

Broken down stuctures in the premises

A special show in the evening showcases a musical garden to spectators. I haven’t seen it but I guess it is similar to the one I saw in Brindavan Gardens in Mysore. Much smaller though.

We then checked the structures all around it. There was an empty water tank which was meant to provide water to a thousand people staying here.

Beautifully crafted Balcony above the main entrance of Shanivar Wada

That took us back in history. What this place might have looked at that time. When one stands on the walls, one can see grounds all across the fort and houses away in the distance and now houses, shops have cropped up all around the fort. A tiny road separates the fort from civilization.

Just imagine what would have happened if the government had taken an early step in restoring these structures before they collapsed. Then we might have got a glimpse of some of that ancient glory. Hopefully, the belated attention will safeguard whatever remains from collapse and destruction.

Wall

It took us around 1½ hours to view this fort in its entirety. Outside the fort there was a huge statue of Shivaji Maharaj put up on a podium. I guess reality shows are held here with the Shaniwar Wada in the backdrop as the stage was being removed and so were the chairs put around it.

On this trip, both food and water were not an issue as they were easily available. There was no need to carry packed water and food. This was an urban trek and not a rural far away from civilization trek, like the ones I usually do.

Narayan Gate

Shaniwar Wada is listed among the names of the most haunted places in Maharashtra. I had read on the internet that the Peshwas had ruled the province; Narayan, the head of the state, had been assassinated under the order of Madhavrao’s wife. The assassins chased Narayan across the fort. It is said that while running he yelled, “Uncle, save me.” It is said that even today locals hear his voice on a full moon day.

As we had come in broad daylight, we were not likely to hear his voice crying for help.

Khidki Darwaza and shelter near the walls

Family tree of Peshwas

I had told Hithakshi about this and she was against visiting this place. I somehow convinced her to accompany me on this trip stating that it is totally safe during the day.  It has to be. After all, the place is packed with people.

The Main Door

We then headed off to board a city bus to take us to Pune City. It cost us Rs 14. This trip had been a good one. Both places had been good sights. We had a few snacks and then headed off to catch a bus that would take us home. I will plan to do the other attractions in Pune, in the coming weekends. So stay tuned to my blog for those too.

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Sion Fort

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Sion Fort is located very near to Sion Railway Station

Pandit Jawarharlal Nehru Garden

On my second urban trek, I decided to cover the Sion, Dharavi and Sewree forts. So on a Saturday, I packed my rucksack and set out.


Road leading to the Fort



I headed out of Sion station via the bridge facing Dadar. Once on the bridge, I started walking along the east side. I asked a shopkeeper for directions to the fort. According to his instructions, I would have to cross the flyover atop the Eastern Express highway and go to the other side.

Within 10 minutes, I was at the base of the fort. Here I saw the Pandit Jawarhalal Nehru Udyan (garden) and the Sion branch office of the Archaeological Survey of India.



Fort from a distance



The Udyan, at the entrance of the fort, was full of students from a nearby college who had come there either to study or for a small get-together. The garden was in bad shape, as it had not been pruned for a long time. The water fountains were not functioning properly either.

After inquiring with the garden caretaker, I headed off to see the fort. A flight of steps took me to the top of the fort. This fort was built by Gerard Aungier, the British Governor of Bombay, atop the conical hillock. The year of construction is unknown. The vegetation is so thick that you cannot see the fort from the base of the steps.

The one and only cannon on the Fort

I reached the fort in 10 minutes. My first impression of the fort was that it was a series of many one-storey rooms connected together by many doors and windows, but no roof. The ceiling was made of old wooden trunks. The roof must have disappeared a few years ago. The view from here was amazing. I could see a huge portion of the city. Maybe the fort was used as a watch tower to guard over the city.

 Graffiti is a common feature on most of the forts I have been till date, but on this fort it was very minimal. The walls still stand intact. God alone knows for how many centuries they have stayed that way.

Atop the For

There was a cannon atop the fort. Amazingly, it was pointing towards a chemical plant. Had it been in working condition it would certainly have blown up the chemical plant in its radius.

View from the Top

 This fort is worth a visit. It gave me the feeling of being alone atop a rustic fort, surrounded by a modern city below.

 I then bid goodbye to the fort and headed off to see Dharavi Qila, better known as Kala Qila.

Forts in Mumbai are Sewri Fort, Bandra Fort, Mahim Fort, Madh Fort. Sion Fort. Worli Fort. 

Caves in and around Mumbai are Mahakali Caves, Jogeshwari Caves, Mandapeshwar Caves, Kanheri Caves and Elephanta Caves

Peth Fort in Karjat near Mumbai

Sunday, November 21, 2010

It had been a while since my last trek, so I decided to go on an easy one. Ha, ha. I got in touch with my trekking buddy Neel and we agreed to go do some exploring.

Peth fort from a distance

Neel, his fiancée Neelam, another Neelam’s brother Rahul and I decided to check out Kothaligad in Karjat.

Kothaligad is a small fort, roughly around 1500 ft in height, shaped like a pinnacle. Since it is located at the base of a village named Peth, it is also called Peth Fort. Not much is known about this fort other than the fact that it was captured from the British by the Marathas.

We had to board a train to Karjat on Saturday morning. I filled my backpack with water bottles, and food articles. I met my trekking group at Kurla, and from there we boarded the train to Karjat.

After alighting at Karjat railway station, we boarded a State Transport (ST) bus to Ambivali. From there we had to walk all the way up to the base village of the fort.

ST buses are also known as Lal Dabba in Hindi, literally red container. The driver drives the bus so fast, you wonder if he nurses secret ambitions of being a race car driver.

It took us around an hour to reach Ambivali village. Then from there we walked to the base village of the fort. We met a few villagers on the way. Out of curiosity, we asked them how much time it would take us to reach the village. Thirty minutes, they replied. Taking their word for it, we walked and walked and guess what? After three hours, we reached the base village. Fortunately for the welfare of the villagers, we didn’t meet them again. Grrrr.

Peth Fort from the base village

At the base village, we had our lunch as it was nearing afternoon. And then we set out to see the fort. It was a vertical climb, very steep and very tiring but after a few halts for water and quick snacks we finally reached the walls (the fortification of the fort) and entered the fort through the Maha Darwaja (Main Door). It took us two hours to reach. Phew!

The pinnacle was used as a watchtower by Maratha warriors. They would keep a watch lest their enemies attack the fort.

Entrance to Peth fort from the inside

Amazingly the top part of the pinnacle has to be climbed from the inside of the pinnacle. Doesn’t that sound interesting? Can you imagine having to trek your way up the pinnacle from the inside of the fort which is carved out of sheer rock?

Temple on the fort with carved pillars

Way to the temple

There are a few caves and a temple up here. The top of the pinnacle is like a plateau which had a few cannons and water cisterns, some of which supply water to the base village too. We shot some pictures there and then rested in one of the caves. Finally we decided to descend from the pinnacle. Luckily the descent didn’t take us as long as the climbing had and we were down in an hour’s time.

Cannon atop the fort

Carving on the wall of the fort

We spent some time in the village and then decided to head home. We reached Ambivali and boarded the Formula One car. Oops! I mean the ST bus and reached Karjat. We boarded another ST bus to Panvel. From there we boarded a BEST bus to Kurla, where my buddies went their separate ways. Finally I boarded a train back home to Andheri.

Now this is the first time on a trek that I had had to change three buses and two trains and by the time I reached home, I was dead tired.

But it had been an enjoyable trek, and all said and done, that’s what counts. Readers, check it out some time.

Pinnacle of Peth