Bedse Caves are located in Maval Taluka near Lonavala in Pune District in Maharashtra. It can be accessed by road only. Maval district has Karla Caves and Bhaje Caves and Lohgad, Visapur, Tikona and Tung fort in its premises.
Vihara or dwelling room
After visiting Karla Caves we headed over to Bedse Caves. Please refer to Google maps for directions. As we were travelling by car it took us around 40 minutes to reach the base of the caves.
Narrow entry to one of the rooms
We traveled on the Ekvira Devi Road - Old Mumbai Pune Expressway - Pawnanagar Kamshet Road - Bedsegaon Road.
Bedse Village is a cluster of about 20 to 30 houses surrounded by fields on all sides.
Vihara and another Cave
It was afternoon now. We parked the car near the foothills. Stairs are built to reach the top. The caves are not located atop the hill but somewhere in between, from the base of the hill one can locate the Caves.
Chaitya or prayer Hall
Again climbing the stairs is tiring. It will test your calves and knees. There are roughly around 400 plus steps to reach the top.
Finally we made it to the caves with a lot of breaks.
Stupa
History states that the caves were built in 1st century BC. There is a chaitya (Prayer hall) and a vihara (dwelling room) apart from small caves and water tanks here. Fresh water is available in the water tanks. The water is cool and refreshing.
Bedse Caves
The caves are smaller in size in comparison to Karla and Bhaje Caves.
The viharas or the dwelling place of the monks, were rooms built by the monks to mediate. The floor of the rooms was uneven, The room will also consist of a rock cut elevated bed. Meant for sleeping. The entrance to the room is very narrow. I guess the monks were thin. The entrance to the rooms have beautifully carved horse shoe arches atop it.
View of Maval District from Bedse Caves
The carvings on the Chaitya or prayer hall is very similar to Chaitya of Karla Caves. It has a stupa surrounded by pillars. But the pillars were not carved like the ones in Karla Caves. no wooden arches on the ceiling and no umbrella atop the Stupa. At the entrance of the Chaitya are Viharas with beautifully carved horse shoe arches atop it. The horse shoe arches are also carved on the walls of the caves. There is also a detailed carving of man, woman and animal atop the pillar at the entrance of the Chaitya.
Why am I even comparing these caves? oh God.
Carvings on Chaitya in Bedse Caves
We met Santosh here, he doubles up both as a guide and guard at this place. Santosh is doing his MA in Economics and to earn pocket money works here 6 days a week from 9 AM to 6 PM.
Chaitya in Bedse Caves
It was great chatting with Santosh. Though economics and history are not at all related he is still able to maintain a balance between them. He informed us about the history of this place too.
Me
We sat in the Chaitya premises. I felt so good to be here. All the sound I could hear was the chirping of the birds and the wind blowing. This is a good place to mediate. These caves are hardly visited by people.
View of Bedsegaon from Bedse Caves
After doing my photography we headed over to Tikona Fort. At the base of the hill is this tree, covered with red colored flowers. Dominic was trying to convince me that this tree has red colored leaves. I was like "What?" Practically not possible. As we went closer we realized that they are red colored flowers but not a single leaf atop it. NO sign of leaves below the tree either, all that I could see is flower fallen from the trees.
Karla Caves or Karle Caves are located in Karli near Lonavala, in Maharashtra. Ekvira Devi Temple is located in the cave premises. The caves can be accessed by road both from Mumbai and Pune (cities in Maharashtra). Closest rail station being Lonavala Railway station.
Dominic, Manohar and Me in one of the viharas or dwelling place
Our original plan was to do a overnight trek to Karla Caves, Bedse Caves, Tikona Fort, Tung Fort and finally camp for the night near Pawna Lake. Our backup plan was to visit Rajmachi Fort in Lonavala. But till the last 10 hours we were unsure as to where we were headed.
View of Karli Village from the Karla Caves premises
Finally Dominic who had accompanied Manohar and Me on our trip to Wai, gave the final nod and the very next morning we planned to visit Karla Caves, Bedse Caves, Tikona Fort and Tung Fort. We planned to go by car as ST buses and public transport is not very good around Lonavala, also the places we will be going are distant from each other. So a car tripping will help save on time.
Another view of Karli Village
As decided we met at Ghatkopar Railway station at 6 AM. We were greeted by rain showers. Rain in the month of March is very unusual. I guess this is the sign of global warming.
Other caves in its premises
Mumbai - Panvel - Mumbai Pune Expressway - Lonavala - Old Mumbai Pune Highway - Ekvira Devi Road. This is the route we took. Google Maps are available for the same. We had breakfast in the form of vada pav at the food court on the Mumbai Pune Expressway at 9 AM.
Sculpture in one of the caves
There is an entry fee of Rs.30 to visit the village. From the village starts the round and winding road uphill to the base of the caves. The roads here are very narrow and steep so see to it that you drive in gear one and don't race uphill.
The big pillar with the four lions of Ashoka outside the main cave
The roads offer a beautiful view of the villages below, the mountain ranges in a distance and fields around. Sadly we couldn't stop on the way else we would have gone down the hill.
Carvings on Karla Caves
After paying parking fee of Rs.10 we set out to visit the caves. A series of steep steps, leads to the top of the caves. These steps did test our calves and knees. So take sufficient breaks while you climbing up. There are souvenir shops on either side of the road, selling articles of worship, restaurants, toys and local sweets.
Beautifully carved entrance to the Karla Caves
Finally we reached the caves. Entry fee for the caves is Rs.5 for Indians for Rs.100 for foreigners. To his Manohar commented, "And we talk of racism." LOL.
Carvings on Karla Caves
There are around seven caves in its premises. Nothing much to see in the initial ones. Certain caves are located on the first level and second level also. But entry to these is not possible as it is either locked or weeds placed on the stairs making it difficult to move up. Surely something might have happened in the past due to which this restriction is imposed. The vihara's or the dwelling place of the monks, were rooms built by the monks to mediate. The floor of the rooms was uneven, They had to sit on them for hours to mediate. I tried sitting on it and my bum started paining in 5 minutes, wondering how they would have sat for hours at a stretch. The room will also consist of a rock cut elevated bed. Meant for sleeping.
Dominic, Manohar and Me
The place where the Karla Caves are carved is not the highest point on the hill. There is a small tiny road going uphill which takes one to the top. But entry here is restricted and there is a guard manning it. But this place offers a beautiful view of Karli Village and the surrounding hills. The Ekvira Devi Temple is located outside the main and the most beautifully crafted cave among st them all.
The stupa in the centre with the wooden umbrella atop it, parallel pillars with carvings atop it and the wooden arches on the ceiling
There are lots of devotees at Ekvira Devi Temple. So there is crowd around the main cave. The Ekvira Devi Temple is old but not as old as the Main Cave. Outside the Main Cave (Chaitya or prayer hall) is a huge pillar with the four lions of Ashoka on it. Though I have been to many Buddhist Caves in the past, this is a rare sighting.
Carvings atop the pillars with inscription on them
The Cave is huge both in length and breadth. They have put net on most parts of the caves so that it obstructs bats and birds from entering its premises, who dirty the place with their droppings. Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves near Aurangabad, they too have nets all over the place. The elephants, whose tusks have fallen, the carvings of the couple, Buddha mediating and carvings in the shape of a arc are beautiful. There are horse shoe shaped arch carved on the walls of the Chaitya. Similar to the Chaitya at Bedse Caves.
Inscription on the pillars
Inside the premises is a huge stupa with a wooden umbrella atop it. I haven't seen this in any of the other caves I have visited so far. The parallel pillars leading to the stupa are beautifully carved at the top. A design which is uniform on all the pillars. We also located certain symbols on the pillars. There are writings both in Pali and Sanskrit on the pillars, as confirmed by Manohar.
Stupa with a wooden umbrella atop it
The top of the caves is made of wooden arches. It is surprising that it has survived all these years. It really feels nice in these caves. It took us back in time and we started discussing history. I loved history in my schooling days. But what is worth knowing is the handwork that has gone in designing these caves over the years. The Buddhist monks had to cut out huge portions of the rock so that the place could be built. For example to make the Elephants trunk, they have to remove the rock around it. As confirmed by Manohar. The Karla Caves are maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) These caves were built between 2nd century BC to 2nd century AD Though the Buddhist built these caves to mediate there is a huge crowd at this cave, mainly the devotees at Ekvira Devi Temple. So it is difficult to be at peace in this cave. We the headed off to see Bedse Caves the second on out itinerary.
It had been 15 days in the New Year, and I haven't been for a trek. This feeling was killing me from inside. All the plans I was making were getting cancelled and I was annoyed with the same.
Hatia Lokmanya Tilak Terminus
I met up with Shilpa and decided to make a foolproof plan to visit Kohoj, that didn't workout, we then settled to visit Wai for an overnight trip. That didn't workout either. Finally we decided to visit Ankai and Tankai Fort.
General Unreserved compartment
As decided we meet up at Lokmaniya Tilak Terminus (LTT) to board the Hatia Lokmaniya Tilak Express. The superfast express train departs from LTT at 00:15 AM. We were to alight at Manmad Junction at 04:27 AM.
Shilpa and Me at Manmad Station
I took a unreserved train ticket at Andheri station (Western Line). Point to be noted here is. We can get a unreserved train ticket from the start station till the end station. But you need to let the ticket vendor know whether the train you are travelling by is a super fast train or a passenger train as the ticket costs differ. The train ticket to Manmad Station cost me Rs. 110.
Shilpa and Me at Ankai Killa station
The train journey from Andheri to Dadar (Western Line) was smooth. I boarded the 10:31 PM train. It was empty and to top it, it was a fast train so I reached Dadar at 10:47 PM. Crossed over to the other side i.e Dadar of Central Railway. Platform No.1 was packed with people. I understood that either the train is either cancelled or delayed. It was both. I left the first train as it was packed. I then boarded the Thane local at 10:57 PM which had a lesser crowd. I alighted at Kurla station at 11:07 PM.
Goods Train, we crossed
Now I had to move over to the harbour line as the train to Tilak Nagar is from there. Tilak Nagar is a station on the harbour line.
Group Selfie, backdrop is Ankai Fort
I had to change platforms to board the harbour line train. Again I was greeted with packed crowd at the station. What I learnt on the platform is that the previous train was cancelled and the current train is delayed by 10 minutes. Finally the train arrived at 11:40 PM. I managed to get in the train irrespective of the crowd on the platform, else I would be late to board the super fast train at LTT.
Sunrise
Tilak Nagar is the next stop after Kurla. LTT is located at a distance of 15 minutes (walking) from Tilak Nagar station. I managed to reach LTT at 11:57 PM.
Landmark - Temple, opposite the fort
The last two compartments were unreserved. One for ladies only and the other general. Shilpa got in ladies unreserved compartment and me in the other. Though our bags were with Shilpa. The general was packed with men. I managed to get a place to stand in the train. It was not over packed. So I had some space to myself. Men were sitting, standing and sleeping wherever they found place in the train.
Temple at Ankai base village
The train departed on time at 00:15 AM. The train makes a couple of pit stops at Thane, Kalyan, Kasara and Igatpuri for attaching and detaching additional engines as it has to cross over ghats, then Nasik Rd and finally Manmad. The train then moves ahead to Hatia.
Post Thane the temperatures started dropping and I had started feeling cold. To top it my pullover was in the bag with Shilpa.
Unknown tomb at the base of Ankai and Tankai Fort
The train stopped at Kasara for attaching engines. I took advantage of this and headed over the ladies boogie to get my pullover. The pullover and the skull cap made me feel warm.
Another Tomb
Shilpa told me that in the night males are not allowed in the ladies unreserved compartment, but they are allowed in the day provided they can prove that they are related to the women in the boogie. Now what logic is this.
The train reached Manmad at 04:55 AM. Now we had to board a connecting train to take us to Ankai Killa station.
Tankai Jain Caves and Tankai Fort
As we exited the train and the platform, the Ticket Checker (TC) asked us for our tickets. We both had tickets with us. Only difference was mine had super fast printed on it. The TC wanted to make a quick buck and so stated that Shilpa didn't have the right ticket. To this she informed him that the ticket vendor should let us know about it. She was not informed when we booked the tickets. Sad to say that after paying him 100 bucks he let us go. We asked him, what time the train to Ankai is. He informed that he was not aware about it and that we need to ask at the ticket counter.
Steps leading to Tankai Jain Caves, Anaki Fort and Tankai Fort
We walked to the ticket counter to find out that the connecting train had already gone. He suggested that we should go the State Transport depot and board a State Transport (ST) bus and we did just that.
Group Selfie
We boarded a share a rickshaw at a cost of Rs.10 each, we were dropped at the Manmad ST bus stand. We inquired there and were informed that there is no direct bus to Ankai fort. But the highway is near the Ankai Killa railway station, which is near the fort and that we would be dropped there. We need to go walking from there.
That's Me
Highway is State Highway 10 also known as the Malegaon-Manmad road.
Now the bus departs at 06:30 AM and so we had to kill time. We then decided to sip on some hot tea at a tea stall outside the ST bus stand. But as the weather was cold the hot tea grew cold in a matter of a minute or two.
Structure near the Tankai Jain Caves
The bus started on time and by 06:45 AM, from platform no. 1 at Manmad ST bus stand and were alighted at the Ankai Killa Railway Station. Cost of tickets was Rs.9 each. The bus driver guided us with instructions from there to visit the fort. So board any bus plying to Malegaon.
Tankai Jain Caves
Now there was a goods train parked near the railway line. We inquired with the station master about the same, he informed us to cross from below the line. This is very dangerous and one should not be doing it. Though we did cross this way under the guidance of the station master.
Tankai Jain Caves
Now there are two sets of railway lines that need to be crossed one with a set of three tracks and the other with just one track, after that you will reach a tiny tar road. There is a temple near by a yellow top (kalash). You just can't miss it. Keep walking straight on the tar road next to the temple, the fort is now on your left hand side. In 30 minutes time we were finally at the Ankai Village. It is the base village for the fort.
Temple in Tankai Jain Caves
From the village one can see the caves and then the fortification of both Ankai and Tankai Fort.
Note: there are no signboards here.
Sculptured stone outside Tankai Jain Caves
A series of steps will lead you to the caves. These steps were built recently as they looked new plus there is construction material located at the start of the steps.
There are a couple of old structures near the base village and also near the caves. Not sure as to what it is.
Fortification of Ankai and Tankai Fort from Tankai Jain Caves
The were 7 to 8 caves here carved from the rock. The carvings on them were beautiful. Some of the caves were converted into temples. Good to see that people have taken up the work or restoring caves and forts seriously. The view was hazy but we could see farms, trees and houses in a distance. We could see the railway line and also the highway from here.
View from Tankai Jain Caves
The time was now 09:00 AM on my watch when we breaked for breakfast.
After having breakfast we decided to climb up the stairs leading to the fort.
First you need to cross the bastion, from here is the main entrance to both the forts.
Elephants sculptured on the Tankai Jain Caves
The fortification is not all around of the fort but just a few portions of the fort. The meeting point of both hills i.e Ankai Fort and Tankai Fort is well fortified. The walls are redone but they still have a charm of their own. This place offers a wonderful view of the surrounding.
Three Sparrow at Tankai Jain Caves
Now there are monkeys here. Point to remember here is. If you don't want to be harassed by monkeys, then don't harass them. Please keep food items in the bag, as they get attracted to it.
Fortification of Ankai Fort
We decided to trek Ankai Fort first. The way up the fort is very similar to Lohgad fort near Lonavala. One has to cross a series of doors or Darwaza and steep steps to reach the top. These steps reminded Shilpa of Harihar Fort in Nasik. This part of the fort is still intact. Note that it will put pressure on your knew joints.
Main Entrance to Ankai and Tankai Forts
Finally at 11:00 AM we were atop the fort. Now the reason why it took us so long is, we were taking selfies all the way up and were enjoying the view around.
The weather was nice and cool, gusty winds blowing so we didn't break a sweat. We decided to do this fort in entirety. We first decided to walk around the edge of the fort so get a good view of the hillside and valleys and then trek to the top most point of the fort, where the orange flag sways in the wind.
Shilpa and Me at one of the Fort Darwaza
The fort is basically a plateau. The fortification is only at the entrance of the fort. The entire plateau is not fortified.We kept walking around the edge of the plateau just to get a 360 degree view of the surrounding. Which was amazing. The hill ranges in a distance, the fields below, the tiny houses amongst them and the barren land. The railway line which circles the fort. We could see Manmad packed with houses in a distance.
View from the common entrance of Ankai and Tankai Fort
The plateau is mostly barren. I has huge cactus bushes on it. What we found strange is that most of the cactus bushes were covered with clothes belonging to men, women and children. We did ask a couple of locals who were on the fort about it. They gave us a lame reason that the clothes flew and came all the way up here.
Tankai Fort
We then walked to the other end of the fort and located another square shaped fort like structure. A fort in a fort, no this is new. I was eager to go in and check it out. But Shilpa decided to spend some time near the pond outside it.
Again no signboard to inform as to what the structure is. It was way different from the inside. It houses a dargah in the inside and a few windows on one side of it. There was also a banyan tree which has a couple of sacred threads around it. Also there was a dried square shaped pond in its premises, which had steps leading to it. Again it was isolated.
Group Selfie
Coming to ponds, let me inform you that there are a couple of water bodies up here, some are ponds, others are carved in rock and have dirty water accumulated in it.
There are a couple of temples and caves in its premises. The temples are open to pubic but not the caves as it is under lock and key.
Playing cards in a water tank atp Ankai Fort
We then decided to climb up to the top most point of the fort. There is no proper route to take you to the top. You need to make your own. As the saffron flags are there, Shilpa said that there has to be a way to climb up this place. We took a difficult and steep route up which took its toll on me. It was a 80 degree angle climb. I was the weakling here and so it took us time to reach the top. Finally after 35 minutes of struggle we were on top. Standing tall on the highest point of the fort. The view from here was amazing. we could see what was there on Ankai plateau and also on Tankai plateau. Remember Tankai is smaller in height in comparison to Ankai.
Another monumnet on Ankai Fort
Strong winds were blowing here. It was midday but we were not feeling the heat due to the strong winds. We had snacks here and started discussing personal and work life experiences. Now I had this scary thought in my mind. It was a pain to climb up, no way I am going down the same way. We then located another way to descend. Now we saw four ways that came up. We had to make a choice on the easiest way down.
Inside the monument premises on Ankai Fort
The time was now 01:10 PM. We went as per our instincts and took up another way down, and this was the easiest way, both for climbing and descending. Why did it not occur to us earlier. Aaaaahhhhhhh.
From the Ankai Fort the Tankai Fort is clearly visible. Again it has a fortification and is only till the main entrance of the fort. And that is the one only entrance or door or Darwaza to the fort. Again Tankai Fort is also a plateau and is mostly barren. There are just two house like structures atop it along with a pond full of water.
Inside of monument premises
We then decided to descend the fort. Descending was equally difficult as it put extreme pressure on our thighs, knee and calves. Though there were steps, they were huge.
Tem ples in Ankai Fort
We finally came to the meeting point of Ankai and Tankai fort. we dropped the plan of climbing Tankai fort as it was clearly visible from Ankai fort and headed back to the village.
Now the descend had started taking it's toll on our legs but we still managed to get down to the base village at 03:00 PM.
Caves on Ankai Fort
Had refreshments here. Note there are couple of shops in the village which serve snacks and cold drinks. We then headed to the highway. As we needed to hitch hike to Manmad Station.
After waiting for 15 minutes we got a shared rickshaw to take us to Manmad at a cost of Rs. 10 each. The distance from Manmad Station to Ankai Killa Station is around 8 KM.
View of Tankai Fort from Ankai Fort
We were hungry, had lunch in the form of chicken lollipop at a local roadside eatery and then headed off to Manmad station to book tickets for a super fast train to Mumbai.
Now the time was 04:20 PM on my watch. There are a couple of trains plying to Mumbai from here and we had to get on one of the trains to reach Mumbai. We started checking for train info to check as to which train would get us to Mumbai in the shortest possible time.
Main Entrance to Tankai Fort
We first boarded the RBL-PBH-LTT Express, as it arrived the moment we stepped on the platform. Later at Igatpuri we swapped trains. We boarded the Geetanjali Express.
Now at Igatpuri station, additional engines are attached to trains so that they move smoothly across the ghats. Funny part is, both trains took off at the same time. Is this a race? We were hoping that we made the right decision to swap trains. Lucky stars. The Geetanjali Express was the first to cross the finishing line.
Monuments atop Tankai Fort
We were again travelling in the unreserved compartment. The general was full and there was no place to stand, so we boarded the ladies unreserved compartment. There were many men there along with their families. Then we switched over to the disabled unreserved compartment in the Geetanjali Express. But what was worth seeing is that even though it is a coach meant for the disabled, it had a upper berth, it had abled people travelling in it and to top it, it had a huge toilet. A toilet that big I have not seen in the Rajdhani either. On our way back we travelled standees and sitting too.
Me, Tankai Fort in the backdrop
We finally reached Dadar at 09:30 PM.
Geetanjali Express
It was a good trek as there were stairs all the way up and the climb was not difficult, except for the last bit. We did manage to conquer the Ankai fort and see the Tankai fort from it. Road transport and Rail transport were easy to find. We didn't end up wasting a lot of time on waiting for the mode of transport. Also we had taken ample food and water supply with us. Great company always makes the journey fun. Thanks Shilpa.
Shilpa and Me on the railway tracks
A big thankyou to Aashish too, gave me guidance for this trip on call and also via his blog.
