Gandharpale Buddhist Caves on NH66 aka NH17 near Mahad in Maharashtra (India)

Friday, May 27, 2016

After visting the Sav Hot Water Springs we headed over the NH17 to reach the Gandharpale Caves just before Mahad. Again they are located in the Mahad Taluka of the Raigad district of Maharashtra. The caves are located on the left hand side and can be easily seen from a distance while travelling on NH17 aka NH66. The caves are around 5 KM away from Hotel Neelkamal (Jetty for Sav Hot Water Springs).

Gandharpale Buddhist Caves high up on the hills

A series of steps leads to the caves. There is a tiny hut near the start of the steps, that serves cold drinks and packed snacks. These steps are newly built. But not that new either. I recollect, 2 decades ago, when I was schooling,  I used to travel to Goa by bus for summer vacation, I used to see these caves then, but was not sure as to what their names were.

Gandharpale Buddhist Caves

The caves structure are similar in nature to the ones I have seen at Kanheri Caves. A narrow stone staircase similar to the one at Bedse Caves leads to the caves at large. There should be around 24 caves here.

Stairs leading to Gandharpale Buddhist Caves and NH17

The cave premises are neat and tidy, I am sure they are looked after. The caves are not in very good condition though and they have graffiti on some of the cave walls. A stupa and certain carvings are still visible on certain caves. All the caves are carved on a single hill, similar to Ajanta and Aurangabad Caves near Aurangabad.

Gandharpale Buddhist Caves

We visited all the caves and then rested in one of them. The caves offer a wonderful view of the the NH17 and the tiny villages, farms and hills in a distance.

Stu[pa and Carvings at Gandharpale Buddhist Caves

We then headed to Khed Caves near the Khed ST Bus Stand. 

State Transport bus ride to Ahmednagar

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Ahmednagar, thus this word rings bells in your head. For me it truly does. In school, history was my favorite subject. In history we learned about the Nizam Shah of Ahmednagar.

I decided to take a trip to Ahmednagar along with my friend Manohar, who had accompanied me to several treks around Maharashtra. Nagar is another name this city is known by. Had heard this name while I was returning from Aurangabad.

Ahmednagar is located around 239 KM away from Mumbai. It can be accessed by road and rail. We decided to take road transport as at such notice we would not get train tickets by train it is around 255 KM away. There are no flights to Ahmednagar. We decided to take ST bus to reach Ahmednagar instead of taking the car along.

Apart from State Govt buses, private buses ply to Ahmednagar on a regular basis. We boarded the 11:00 PM ST bus from Dadar TT to Tarakpur in Ahmednagar, it was to reach Ahmednagar in the morning around 6 AM.

Finally at a cost of Rs.410 a ticket we boarded the semi luxury bus to Ahmednagar, the moment the took off, I fell asleep and I slept like a log in the bus. The bus driver drove the bus like a formula one car, racing and turning on the roads, but that didn't affect me much. Finally at 5 AM we were at Ahmednagar bus stand aka MSRTC Main ST stand located very close to the Swastik Chowk Pune Bus Stand. MSRTC Tarakpur bus stand is the next stop and around 1.6 KM away. ( These bus stand are all in Ahmednagar)

I checked up the places on my itinerary for the day. I had Ahmednagar Fort, Chand Bibi Tomb, Daria Bagh Palace, Damdi Masjid and Calvary Tank Museum.

In the premises of the ST bus stand, are restrooms and washrooms available for a minimal fee. After refreshing ourselves we headed over to have some hot tea. The weather was cool though not cold as I had expected. Sadly the jumper that occupied the most space in the bag, remained in house only. LOL.

I know it is last moment research, but still came in handy while planning the places to visit at the last moment. We decided to do Chand Bibi Tomb, Damdi Masjid and Faria Bagh Palace first as there is no entry time limit nor entry fee for the same.

We asked a couple of rickshaw drivers outside the bus stand, to charged us Rs.1000 to visit the five places, they informed us that it would take us around 5 to 6 hours to see then in entirety. I so miss not taking the car along. But again with the car we would have to ask for directions as there are no signboards around. Hope GPS works here.

We kick started our trip, with Chand Bibi Tomb.  

Aurangabad Caves in Aurangabad

Sunday, May 25, 2014

We got ourselves a rickshaw to visit Aurangabad Caves and Sunheri Mahal; both are located on the outskirts of the city.

Aurangabad Caves Eastern side from a distance

The rickshaw cost was included on our package tour including the Darwazas of Aurangabad.

Sculptures in the Caves

We headed to see the Caves first. In a matter of minutes we were out of the city premises and on to the hills, we were climbing up and down hills to reach the caves.

Caves

The land around the caves was barren; we could hardly see any greenery around. The heat was getting unbearable here but that didn’t dampen our spirits and we continued on our quest.

Eastern side of the Caves

Aurangabad Caves are divided into two halves. The Eastern and Western side.  Caves 1 to 5 are on the Western side and the others on the Eastern side.  These caves were cut between the 6^th and 8^th century in the Siyachal ranges.

Cavings inside the cave premises

I am not sure which side we landed first but we headed to get ourselves a ticket. There was no one at the ticket counter. It was locked. But there was no gate to see the Caves.  The price of ticket was Rs.5.

Sleeping Buddha

There are few caves here in comparison to Ajanta and Ellora  Caves. The caves are almost identical to Ajanta and Ellora Caves so I am of the understanding that they might have been built in the same era.

More carvings

Again these caves appeared to me as if they are being maintained. I won’t be surprised if the Japanese are looking after its wellbeing.  Like Ajanta Caves.

They have nicely constructed steps to view each of the caves, nets are put up all over the caves so that Bats don’t make them their homes and the caves are nice and clean.

Carvings

Again these caves have beautifully carved pillars and mythological figures carved on the walls as Ajanta Caves.  The carvings were repetitive.

Though the heat was killing us when we were approaching the caves, the weather here was quite pleasant. God alone knows how. As we are on the hilltop.

Western side of Aurangabad Caves

As we were exiting we saw the ticket counter open and we got ourselves tickets. The person vending tickets also told us that the ticket is the same for all the caves.  So we kept the tickets safely.

Not a soul other than Namrata and Me here.

Sculptures carved in the rock

We then boarded the rickshaw and went over to the other side to see the other part of the caves.

A series of constructed steps leads to the top. These steps were constructed by the ASI as they are looking after the wellbeing of the Caves.

Stupa

There was no one here to check the tickets. Lol.

Climbing up the stairs can put pressure up on your knees so climb slowly.  As we were climbing a few people noticed peacocks atop the hill, sadly we didn’t notice them.

Doors to the Caves

Finally we reached the top. Again the walls were beautifully carved with mythological figures and so were the pillars. Each of the caves had a sculpture of Buddha in them. I also noticed that some of the caves had been painted in beige color which had started to peel off. 

More Caves

Not sure why they were painted. Most were the way there were meant to be.

Carvings on the walls of the Caves

The Caves offers a wonderful view of Bibi ka Maqbara and Sunheri Mahal in a distance and also the city of Aurangabad.

Next pitstop Sunheri Mahal.

Ajanta Caves in Ajanta near Aurangabad

Monday, May 19, 2014

When it comes to Caves, the first thing that comes to our minds is Ajanta and Ellora Caves. Though I had never been to these before, I decided to take this trip to explore these caves.

Ajanta Caves

As I was fascinated with Ellora Caves, I decided to visit Ajanta Caves located on the outskirts of the city.

Ajanta Caves are situated in Ajanta at a distance of 105 km from Aurangabad. So I am guessing that it would take around three hours to reach it. So three hours to go, three to comeback and two to see it. That means an entire day is gone is viewing the caves. That did not stop us from visiting the caves.

Painting in the Cave premises

We asked a day before at the City Bus Stand regarding the bus to board and the timing, so that we can plan the day accordingly. The person sitting at the “May I Help You” board replied that we can board any bus going to Jalgaon and alight at Ajanta to view the caves and those buses ply every 30 minutes.

So the next morning at 630 hours we were at the Bus Stand, we were lucky to get a place in the bus. The bus started off at 645 hours, we got ourselves tickets at the cost of Rs.91 per head, Namrata told the bus conductor to intimate us when we reach. We had also told the passengers nearby to intimate us in case the bus conductor forgot.

Beautifully carved Pillars

At 845 hours we were alighted on the road that leads to Ajanta Caves, and our bus moved on to Jalgaon. From there we took a ticket at a cost of Rs.10 per head to enter the market area.

The market area was full of small shops that cater to food requirements and souvenir shops selling  stones and ornaments.

Finally we landed at the bus stop to take us to the entrance of the fort. Non AC buses charge Rs.7 and AC buses charge Rs.12 for the 20 minute journey to the hills. Note that no private vehicles are allowed here. Private vehicles need to be parked near the market area. These buses are run by the State Govt. of Maharashtra.

At the entrance we were greeted by cheap jacks selling precious stones as they claimed and CD’s on Ajanta and Ellora Caves. Some of them even had CD’s on the Khajuraho Temple. Wonder how he can make a sale of those CD’s here in Ajanta.

Beautifully Carved Caves

We got ourselves a ticket at a cost of Rs.10 per head plus another ticket at a cost of Rs.5 for both to see the paintings within the cave. The caves are open from 900 hours to 1730 hours. They are closed on Mondays but open on National Holidays.

We started our climb up the stairs to reach the cave. The stairs pressurize your knees till to reach the top, meaning the climb is difficult.

There are chair cars available at a cost of Rs.600 to see the caves. We decided to take the services of our legs to see them.

Stupa

The caves can all be seen from the start point. Meaning the caves are built in a circular formation. Inner circle.  There are 29 caves in all. Out of which the last three are inaccessible to public. Some of these caves were built in the 2^nd century BC. These were built by the Buddhist monks for prayers and as monasteries. 

They were later abandoned. Later in the 18^th century they were rediscovered by the British who had come hunting there for a Lion who took shelter in these caves. The British intimated the Nizam about the same, as this area was under his rule and so started the exploration of the caves. As told to us by the guide.

All the caves are numbered from the east to the west.

Paintings on the Cave Ceiling

All the caves are beautifully carved out of the rock. Some had beautifully carved pillars in them along with carvings of Buddha on the walls and a huge Buddha sculpture carved in the middle. This was the phenomenon in all caves.

Some caves had paintings on the walls and the ceilings too. Imagine in that time they painted the walls and the ceilings and the paint has survived for centuries. Look at the paint which we paint our houses from the inside and outside, it needs to be changed every 5 years as it is spoilt by the heat and water leakages. Maybe the paint manufactures should go back in time and take tips from the monks who had painted these caves.

Caves

I like Cave.26 the most has it has a huge reclining statue of Buddha carved on the walls along with other poses of Buddha. It also has a stupa and many beautifully carved pillars in its premises.

Some of the caves were so dark and so poorly lit that it was difficult to take photos in it without using the flash, as flash was banned in the caves. Flash spoils the paintings on the wall hence no usage.

The good news is that drinking water is available on the cave premises and so are toilets available. These are usually missing all over the historic sites in Maharashtra.

Beautifully carved Stupa

Our guide told us that the Japanese Govt is investing in the up keeping of these caves. To this I was ”What, Why”, is it that our Govt has no money in the bank that they need to take the help of the Japanese to upkeep the caves. This is ridiculous as Maharashtra is the richest amongst all the other states and we still begging for help. That is ridiculous.

Carvings

I guess we are more interested in making money that the moment we found someone ready to invest we could not resist the offer. Any which ways it’s good that the caves are being looked after. Though we are late but still we can protect what remains.

The wooden bridge on the river Waghora, offers an amazing view of the Caves. If you have a camera with a 14mm wide angle then you can get the caves in a single shoot instead of sewing images together on a normal camera.

Carvings

A big thank you to the Japanese for investing in the up keeping of the caves. Though I didn’t like the nets that are placed at the openings in the caves. I guess the nets are placed to keep bats away from the caves that stay there and have droppings all over the caves. The caves are home to them, so I guess they should be kept the way they are.

I personally don’t like the new net covering for the caves. The same is spotted even at Ellora Caves located in Aurangabad.

It took us around two hours to see the caves.

Ajanta Caves

Again we boarded the Non AC bus to reach us to Ajanta Car Park from there we landed on the highway to board a ST bus to take us to Aurangabad.

Finally after travelling in the bus for three hours at 1600 hours we were at the City Bus Stand. Tired. Phew.

Bibi ka Maqbara in Aurangabad

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

I you don’t have the money to visit the Taj Mahal in Agra, then you should visit this place, nicknamed Mini Taj Mahal. Just kidding.

Though both the Taj Mahal and Bibi ka Maqbara look similar they are different in all ways.

Bibi ka Maqbara in Aurangabad

We took a ticket at price of Rs.5 each to see the Maqbara.

This beautiful structure was built by Prince Azam Shah in memory of his Mother Rabia-ul-Durani alias Dilras Banu Begum between 1650-1657 AD. She is the wife of Aurangzeb. The architectural brains and construction was done by Ata-Ulla and Hanspat Ria respectively. This structure is also called the Taj of the Deccan. It was constructed at a cost of Rs.6,68,203.70.

Minaret

The mausoleum is in an enclosed area and has four identical minarets erected next to it and can be accessed by steps from all four sides. Next to it is a beautiful garden.

The entire structure is made of marble and beautifully decorated with carvings.

The grave is surrounded by marble which is beautifully decorated. 

The grave is flooded with currency notes which are offered there. I too made my contribution to the same. No photography is allowed in  the premises.

Interiors of the Mosque

There is no entry to the minarets.

Though Bibi ka Maqbara is around 400 years old it has still survived time and weather. Some parts of the structure are being redone to restore it to previous glory, but as we all know, we cannot match what was constructed 400 years ago, but we can still try.

There is a mosque which is located next to it. It was built by the Nizams of Hyderabad in 18^th century. Basalt is used in the construction of the Mosque. The interiors are truly beautiful, made-up of pillars and corner pilasters all connected to each other by beautiful arches. This area could accommodate around 377 people during Namaz.

Closer view of the Bibi ka Maqbara

I was finding it very difficult to gauge this structure. It was a marvel to my eye, so beautifully done and inspite of the strong heat the marble was cold. I could feel it on the palms of my hand. The technology used by them to build such marvelous structures was truly amazing.

After viewing the fine carvings on the whole structure, I am of the understanding that I would have been so difficult to make such carvings on a structure so tall but they still did a fascinated job and a job so well done that it has stood time i.e around 400 years from 

the making. 

The tomb in the basement with money scattered all over it

This place should be visited on a trip to Aurangabad.

Panchakki in Aurangabad

Friday, May 2, 2014

Our auto rickshaw driver told us about this place named Panchakki. He told us that it is a water mill. The water which flows here comes from a hill that is located around 11 km away from here.

We were surprised to hear what he told us. He took us to Panchakki so that we believe what he said.

Description of Panchakki

Again our rickshaw passed through narrow lanes and suddenly it stopped. He pointed out to the left stating that the white structure is Panchakki. We need to take ourselves a ticket at a cost of Rs.5 to enter.

The premises are painted white in color. I guess most of the premises in Aurangabad are painted white in color.

Panchakki

Outside the structure there is a diagrammatic representation of how the Panchakki used to function.

Panchakki which is located in Aurangabad displays Medieval Indian Architecture. It used to get water from a place in the mountains.

I could spot a Dargah named Baba Shah Musafir, a garden, and a mosque in the premises of Panchakki.

Baba Shah Musafir Dargah 

I sate below a tree and viewed the marvel created centuries ago. Somehow I believe that our ancestors were far more superior to us in all fields. They managed with the little they had and made marvelous structures.

Hats off to this place.

Aurangzeb's tomb in Khuldabad

Monday, April 28, 2014

Our auto rickshaw driver then took us around the narrow lanes of Khuldabad. He suddenly stopped. “That is the Tomb of Auranzeb” he said as he pointed out to the white washed historic structure ahead.

Entrance to the grave of Mughal Emperor Auranzeb

 “This is the place where the Great Mughal Emperor was buried” I said to myself. Eagerly I headed off to see his grave.

The structure looked like a mosque with a tall minaret next to it. This structure was white washed and it shone in the hot afternoon.

Outside the structure were many shops selling articles of worship to be offered inside.

I walked out of the rickshaw and entered the Tomb premises.

Structures sin the Grave Premises

The tomb premises looked beautiful. It was painted white with shades of yellow painted on arches. In the premises is the Alamgir Dargah. Again the Dargah was beautifully made.

A few elderly gentlemen were praying there on the mats.

In the premises lay many a grave. No mention of whose graves were they.

I was ushered to the grave of Aurangzeb by an elderly gentleman. Though Aurangzeb was a rich King his tomb was extremely simple. There was neither décor nor any marble work done on his tomb. Why for a King so rich a tomb so simple? Was the question that was running in my head.

Graves all around

The caretaker pointed to a marble slate and read out the various names of Aurangzeb. The names were written in Urdu. He also told us that as per Aurangzeb’s will he didn’t want marble to cover his grave. So the entire place is covered with white sheets except the place where he was buried. A few plants, I guess it’s Tulsi is growing on his Grave.

The caretaker told us that Aurangzeb used to stitch caps, and copy verses from Quran and sell them. He told us that he led a very simple life. He told us that Aurangzeb died in Ahmednagar which is located 30 km away from Aurangabad but was buried here in the Dargah of his Guru, saint Sayyid Zain-ud-Din.

Grave of Auranzeb

Aurangazeb’s son is also buried here.

After paying my respects to this Great Mughal Emperor I headed off to see Daulatabad Fort.

Ellora Caves

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

As we entered Ellora Caves we took a ticket at Rs.10 per head and Rs.10 for rickshaw parking and then headed off to see the caves.

Our driver called out to us and said to us, Checkout cave no. 1 first and then come here to cave no. 16 to which we readily agreed.

Ellora Caves is also known as Kllooru is located 29 km away from Aurangabad. These caves were built by the Kannadiga Rashtrakuta Dynasty.

There are not only Buddhist Caves here but also Hindu and Jain Caves all of which were built in between the 5^th century and 10^th century.

When Namrata first told me about Jain Caves, I couldn’t believe it as I had never heard of Jain Caves before and so thought that she was pulling a prank on me.

Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist Caves.

Caves 13 to 29 are Hindu Caves

Caves 30 to 34 are Jain Caves

The Buddhist Caves were built first followed by the Hindu Caves and later the Jain Caves.

Most of the caves are identical in nature. They had small doors cut out in the rock that I guess served as rooms to stay. Some had carvings at the entrance of the caves. Buddha in various meditation poses.

There were many caves which had huge beautifully carved pillars in them and in the centre there was a rock cut door in which there was a huge carving of Buddha accompanied by other carvings. The walls of these caves were carved with both small and huge life size images of Buddha.

Cave no. 10 features Buddha sitting near a Stupa. There are beautifully carved pillars around the Stupa. The ceiling too is beautifully carved with carvings near it. This is the first stupa I have come across that has a Carving of Buddha near it.

Cave no.11 is like a two storey cave carved in the rocks. The walls of which were carved depicting Buddha in various poses. There were rooms carved on each of the storeys.

The Hindu Caves had carvings on them depicting various Hindu mythological figures.

Cave no. 15 The Dashavatara, is a beautifully carved temple in front of a one storey excavated temple carved in the rock. Again it features carvings of Hindu mythological.

                                                     

Cave no. 16 is the best find of them all. I took me to another world altogether. It’s called the Kaliasanatha. This entire temple is carved out of one single rock. This temple is beautifully carved.

                                                      

You have to pay a visit to this place to admire and capture the beauty of this place on camera.



                                                                              

I just didn’t want to leave the temple premises. Truly a beautiful masterpiece created out of rock.




                                                      

The other caves were more or less similar to the caves I had seen earlier in Ellora.