Train trip: Andheri to Vapi

Monday, May 7, 2012

Train travel has always excited me, ever since my childhood days. There is something about the experiences that a train journey brings to you that makes it fun and worth all the effort and inconvenience, especially when the trains are crowded.

On my visit to Vapi, Gujarat, I decided to travel on a Tuesday. I hoped that the unreserved compartment would be empty as the weekend had just gone by.

As I had not made reservations for the train to Vapi, I decided to travel in the unreserved compartment of the Mumbai Surat Express aka Intercity Express. The train arrived at 7:06 am on platform no 8 at Andheri and was expected to reach Vapi at 9:29 am.

With a ticket for the Intercity Express, I was standing on platform no 8. The fact that there were only 10 other passengers on the platform pleased me. I thought it would increase my chances of getting a place to sit in the unreserved compartment of the train.  My watch indicated the time as 6:40 am.  As the clock struck 7:00, the platform began to suddenly get very crowded. ‘Oh God,’ I moaned. ‘Now I will never get a place to sit in the train. Forget sitting. I’d be lucky if I got a place to stand.’

No sooner did the train arrive than everyone rushed to board the compartment. Generally, I prefer to avoid crowded trains, but in this case I had no plan B in place, so I had to board the train, come what may.

The train was packed with people; luckily I got a place to stand. Guess where. Near the latrine of the compartment. It was moaning time again. ‘Oh no, this place stinks. Do I have to travel like this all the way to Vapi?’ As always there was no immediate reply to my question and I decided to manage to the best of my abilities.

Until the train reached Boisar, a pit stop on the way to Vapi, all that I could see were the people standing in front of me in the cranked up position and the people who had come to empty their tanks in the train latrine.

As people from the train exited from Boisar, I found myself a place to sit. ‘Thank You, God, for answering my prayers.’ This time I had progressed to the entrance of the compartment. It was a good place to sit plus it was blowing as though I were sitting in front of an AC. ‘I am loving it.’

Having found a good place to sit in the train, I began to do what I do best – Observe.

The chilly breeze running through my hair and the chills that I was increasingly beginning to feel did not in any way deter me from sitting near the doorway and enjoying the view outside.

I saw a few houses near the tracks. The children who were playing near the houses stopped to see us pass by and waved out to me. I waved back enthusiastically. The smiles on their faces bought a smile on my face. For all I know, they might be waving out to all the trains that pass by on this track. I didn’t care. I felt good.

Later I saw a cluster of houses in the distance. They sat there, untouched by the excitement and upheaval that the train brought into their lives. They seemed to take each day as it comes, leading a worriless and stress free life.

The train crossed over a few water bodies on the manmade bridges built over them. Most of the water had dried up as we were nearing the summer season. In the water I saw a few women washing their clothes in the water.

When I wash my clothes, I put them in a washing machine, press a few buttons on it and, hey presto, the machine washes them for me.

I have never had the experience of washing my clothes in a setting like this. In the villages, washing clothes is a chore performed by the womenfolk. They wash clothes near the water bodies and then dry them on the rocks nearby. So after a wash in the water they get dried on the rocks under the gaze of the hot sun, making the clothes crisp.

The day I upgrade to becoming an offbeat traveler, I’ll be doing all this. I smiled at the thought.

A few cattle were having a nice bath in the water. I didn't let myself dwell too long on what that implied, but shifted my gaze to some other cattle that were grazing in the fields.

I saw fields full of dried grass all around the tracks. Minutes later the view changed to coconut trees and palm trees, only to be replaced later by chikoo trees.

I love chikoos and chikoo milkshake too. And here I saw whole farms of chikoos. This is the largest plantation in Maharashtra. It felt nice to know that all the chikoos that I had ever eaten had sprung from this soil.

I saw a few people walking with bags in their hands in the middle of nowhere. I guess they were walking to the nearest railway station in order to board a train to go to work. In the villages most people are not very well off. So if they stay far away from the closest railway line, they have to walk. They have no other option.

Finally the train reached Vapi railway station at 9:35 am.

I have always found train travel exciting, and this time was no exception. This time I saw houses with tiled roofs, children playing nearby, farms everywhere, coconut, palm and chickoo trees, and water bodies. When I travel by train in Mumbai, all I can see are buildings built dangerously close to the railway tracks, and creeks.

I wish I could see a view like this every day in the city. I guess that is practically impossible. Fortunately, travelling outside the city is possible. That is why I head out of the city every time I get an opportunity to do so. You too should make a trip and enjoy the scenic views outside the city.

Powai Lake

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Powai Lake is located in Powai, (where else?) and rests between the Renaissance Hotel on one side and the Hiranandani Gardens on the other. The closest railways station is Andheri on the Western line and Kanjurmarg on the Central line.

I had been planning to check out this lake for a long time. Finally I had made it here. Powai Lake is within Mumbai city limits and can be easily accessed by road.

The lake is so beautiful that when you see it in front of you, you will feel that you are out of the city, never mind the traffic jammed road behind you, with the vehicle horns blaring in your ears.

View of Powai Lake

I started to walk along the footpath cum garden which has been created around the lake so that people can enjoy the view of the lake. Most of the work is complete except for a few places along the way, but it is open to the public.

As I started my walking journey along the banks of the lake, I soon came across a machine showing the water level below and a sign warning people not to venture into the waters. I saw 13 of these installed all over the place so that people don’t venture into the lake.

There is another board there stating “Crocodiles inside the lake, do not enter the lake area.”

Another View of Powai Lake

In conversing with a frequent visitor to this place, I learned that a crocodile had been sighted here just a few days ago with its mouth wide open. He added that the crocodiles camouflage themselves well in the surroundings, so it is advisable to always watch out for them and not take any chances whatsoever.

But as the saying goes “Curiosity killed the Cat.” Some ignorant people still venture into the lake in order to catch fish. Apparently, Guppy fish are easily available there.

Is the love to catch fish so strong that people refuse to bother about the water level and the crocodiles inside? A point to ponder upon. I would definitely not do something like this when I know the danger involved in it. But people love to take risks, as the saying goes “Not taking a Risk is the biggest Risk ever.”

Yet Another View of Powai Lake

As I walked on the footpath I saw that the path was made of neatly cut rock stones like the ones they have on the streets of France. The feeling of walking over these stones is amazing.

I saw a few children playing on the mini merry-go-round, swings, and slides. A look of pure, unmitigated joy was evident on their faces. They were thoroughly enjoying themselves. When I was a kid, I don’t recollect going to some garden to play but I used to play in my building compound with my friends and the same joy, I remember, used to be visible on my face.

There are wooden benches put up near the lake so that people can enjoy the view of the lake. I saw this place infested with couples getting cozy by the lake, followed by oldies-goldies and the health conscious who come there for their evening jog.

Crocs in the Water

As I sat on the bench, I could see an amazing view in the water. There were a few bare and a few fully laden coconut trees standing in the water with their roots clearly visible as the water level was low and their reflection in the water made my photos even more realistic. The waves created on the waters lashing on the thick flora growing close to the lake and the flora swaying with the impact made an amazing view.

The reflection of the Renaissance Hotel painted white in the water and the tall skyscrapers in Hiranandani also presented a great sight. The view of the lake at dusk was amazing, followed by the street lights and the building lit up and the reflection of the same in the dark water was quite a sight to see.

Again I am bad at the names of flowers but saw some amazing flowers grown and pruned in the garden next to the lake.

Freestyle Dancers

Next come the birds. I am bad at their names too; the only birds I know are crows, sparrows, pigeons and eagles. To the others I give a pass.

I saw three different kinds of birds here, I have photographed the same so if you know their names, you are welcome to enlighten me.

 Visitors to the lake can usually enjoy a boating service. For a fee, you can drive a boat in the crocodile infested waters. But didn’t see many takers for the same. I saw just 2 boats in the water.

Me

The lake is huge. There are gardens created on the side of the road near Hiranandani Gardens. The side of the lake visible from Renaissance Hotel is closed to non-hotel guests.

It was getting darker, and I saw a flock of birds flying in synchronization, forming a V shape and flying away. Maybe they were heading home as it was going to be dark soon. They were followed by another flock of birds, much smaller than the first. I guess they missed the first flight so the group was smaller.

I later entered the Powai Nisarga Udyan, which is a garden near the lake. It is enclosed but still open to the public. I caught hold of some new flowers there. There was a small hall, where some boys would regularly show up to show each other their dance moves, practice and then have a face off. As I saw them dancing “Step Up” is the movie which came to mind, it is all about dancing, face offs etc. I took their leave as I was not done with the lake.

Reflection Hiranandani in the waters of Powai

There is a musical fountain there open to the public. There are four shows of thirty minutes each. To my bad luck, there was no show that day.

After seeing this lake from the Hiranandani Gardens end, I decided to head back home, I had missed seeing the crocodiles and the musical water show, but nevertheless the journey was fun, as I had had the chance to converse with loads of new people and learned many new things about the place.

But what impressed me the most was that one look at the lake, and you could forget about the busy road right outside, It is truly a beautiful place in which to unwind after a hard day.

Juhu Beach

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Juhu Beach is the beach stretch in the surburbs. It can be easily accessed from Andheri and Vile Parle railway stations on the Western line. Hotels like Sun N Sand, Novatel and Ramada Plaza Palm Grove are located next to the beach. The famous Iskcon temple is located a few metres inside but a walkable distance from the beach.

I started my journey by boarding a Best bus to Juhu Beach. There are plenty of Best buses to Juhu Beach. From Andheri station, 203 and 256 attract a huge crowd. The cost of the ticket is Rs 8. One can also travel by taxi, rickshaws and private vehicles.

I always prefer public means of transport while travelling so here I am in Best bus no 203, going to Juhu Beach. I left my home at around 5:15 pm hoping to get a glimpse of the sunset. Luckily I got the 203 bus in time, but I also got stuck in the traffic jam. At 6:10 pm, I was still on the way to Juhu. I wondered if I would get to see the sunset at all.

Sunset at Juhu Beach

Nevertheless I still went ahead with my plans and I got off at Juhu bus station on the way to Juhu beach and decided to walk to the beach.

I started walking as fast as I could, hoping to catch a glimpse of the sunset on my camera. Finally I was at the beach just in time.

Juhu beach can be accessed from various ends. The area where I had reached was usually less crowded so I decided to start surfing the shore from here.

Litter on the Beach

Hotel Novatel and Hotel Sun N Sand were the two hotels right next to the beach, with some private bungalows alongside.

As I stepped on the sand, I immediately rolled up my pants and took off my slippers and started walking towards the sea. The sand felt so nice and soothing under my feet. I was enjoying the view too simultaneously. I took a few photos of the sun setting in the sea with the rays of the sun popping out from the sunny clouds that surrounded it.

As the tide was low, the water level was far beyond the normal water level so I started walking close to the water, dipping my feet in the ice cold water as it came ashore. I felt really good as the water lashed against my feet. 

Beach Cleanup team

I started walking towards the Versova end. A little further I saw that the beach was flooded with litter which people had thrown in the sea. The sea does not calmly accept the rubbish that you put into it. It vomits the same out on the land, putting the dirt back on our doorsteps. So for a few metres, all that I saw as I walked on the shore were coconuts, garbage and garlands.

Luckily I saw a beach cleanup team nearby. Arriving in a vehicle, they approached this stretch to collect  the waste lying on the shore. As I moved past this, I saw that the beach ahead was clean, thanks to the beach cleanup unit. They had taken care of other people’s messes and made the beach a great place to spend the evening.

The beach was less crowded here so it was fun walking, amid the cool breeze. I walked long that day, but my body felt refreshed. The momentum kept me moving.

Back Flips

On the beach I saw a few boys trying their hand at somersaults and back flips. They had a trainer there who was helping the rookies. As they were attempting this on the sand, it was safe. There wasn’t any possibility of any of them getting hurt much as the sand is a natural cushion. As I walked, I saw many such tutors and students on the beach practicing back flips.

A little ahead were a group of boys playing football on the beach. Playing football on the beach is more tiring than playing on green grass. I have played on both and I personally feel beach football is more tiring.

On the shore, I saw a few stalls selling corn, candy floss, coconut water, bhel, etc. As I passed by, they asked me, “Sirji, kuch khaoge?” (Sir, do you want to eat something?) To which my answer was “Nahi” (No). Ahead I saw a vendor selling peanuts. I asked him to give me Rs 10 worth of peanuts, and he looked at me with astonishment. Looks like no one has ever bought peanuts worth Rs 10 from him. Good, he will remember me.

Football on the Beach

I started munching my peanuts and walking on the shore. I saw elderly couples and health conscious people jogging and doing light exercises on the beach.

I saw many dogs on the beach, not stray dogs but dogs of all shapes and sizes and colours who had come for their evening walks along with their masters or care takers. Soon my peanuts were over.

I decided to do a U-turn here and head to the crowded stretch of Juhu Beach.

People strolling on the Beach

I thought of getting myself some corn. Having bargained on the price for the biggest one, the hawker put it on the fire for it to roast and then sprinkled some lime juice on it and handed it over to me.

I noticed a few children in the distance. They were equipped with beach toys and were making forts and hills on the beach. It was lovely to see them use their imagination. Flashback — when I was a kid I used to do the same on the beach. I used to build forts with moats and make hills and then the water would come and destroy it. I used to also write my name in the sand, only to find it being erased  by the seawater.

I walked a little further munching on my corn and saw a few boys play cricket on the shore. I must admit I have never played cricket on the beach ever. Hopefully, someday in the future.

Children playing in the Sand

Away in the sea I saw a few boats. They were far away in the distance and I had to zoom in on my camera to see them clearly. I guess they were trying their hand at catching fish in the sea. As I looked up in the sky I could see planes take off every 15 minutes.

On my first flight to United Kingdom, I was sitting near the window seat. As the plane took off, I saw it cross over Juhu Beach. The view from the plane was amazing with the sea down below and the people looking like ants. That was the last sight of land. After that I got bored looking out of the window as all I could see was water, water and more water.

I noticed a few people dancing on the shore to the accompaniment of blaring music. As I neared them, I saw that they were students at the (ISKCON) temple. They were wearing saffron robes. Some were dancing, while some others sang and played the drums. I walked past and soon their voices began to sount faint over the swaying winds.

Cricket on the Beach

Finally I was at the main entrance of Juhu Beach. This side of the beach was full of people. Walking through the crowds now took much longer. I saw that some of the people were swimming in the water were drenched from head to toe. A few families were seated on the beach on a chaddar (bedsheet), enjoying home cooked food and watching the sun go down.

The beach was full of photographers who would click a photo of you for a price. One of them approached me and said, “Saab, Juhu beach aaye aur foto nahi liye, to baat nahi bani” (If you come to Juhu beach and don’t get a photo of yourself by the shore, you’re missing something). No sooner did he see my camera than he smiled and walked away.

Again I saw a few vendors selling candy floss, small samosas, novelty articles etc.

Plane in the sky

I saw a miniature parachute man flying up in the sky. The winds were so strong that he kept swaying in the wind.

There were a few tattoo artists on the beach too, offering both temporary and permanent tattoos. There weren’t many takers for the offer though.

There were a few games stalls here, like throwing a ring on an item. I tried my hand at this at Rs 20 for 10 tries, but failed.

Disciples in the ISKCON Temple

There were a few stalls selling pav bhaji, fast food and golas on the beach. These stalls were crowded with people.

After peanuts and corn, I had kala khatta (a drink which tastes like cola). The food items here are a little over priced but is ok. After having my kala khatta, and having shot some pictures, I headed home.

My evening at the beach was fun-filled. I had my evening walk, had my favourite snack (peanuts), saw children building castles in the sand, boys playing cricket and football and doing somersaults, and people enjoying their evening walks with pets. I guess this must be the scene here every day. But the beach was clean again thanks to the beach cleanup team. I disposed off my peanut wrapper and corn stick in a dustbin nearby.

FoodCourt at Juhu Beach

I enjoyed my evening at the sea, with water lashing against my feet and the chilly breeze blowing.

You too should head to the beach, I say.

Mahakali Caves

Saturday, November 5, 2011

As soon as we reached Mahakali Caves, Hitesh’s motorbike came to a grinding halt. Oh, no, I moaned. If the bike did not rally around, we would have to put off our plan for the day. I hoped that by the time we finished inspecting the caves, the bike would change its mind and decide to go ahead with the trip. There was no way we could carry on without the bike.

Caves

BEST buses ply between Andheri Railway Station (East) and the Caves. If you travel by bus, you need to board bus no 333. The Caves are a 10-minute walk from the nearest bus stop. They can also be reached by rickshaws and private vehicles. It took us around 20 minutes to reach the Caves from Andheri Station.



More Caves

These caves were formerly known as Kondivita Caves. No prizes for guessing that these were built by Buddhists 2000 years ago. They are located in the Udayagiri hills and are carved out of black basalt rock. On the map they can be located somewhere between Andheri, Jogeshwari and Vikhroli.

Sculptures in the Caves

The good thing here was that these caves were free of encroachments. It took us an hour to see the caves. There are a few carvings in one of the caves. The structure of each cave is different. There are around 15 caves in all.

Stupa in the Caves

A few water tanks, now completely dry, are used as garbage bins by irresponsible visitors. Our civic sense is truly pathetic. When will people learn to respect our heritage? I wish the authorities had erected dustbins to collect the trash. At least some people would have used them and refrained from littering the place.

Some More Caves

We finished touring the caves and returned to where Hitesh had parked his bike. God answered our prayers because the bike actually started. At this point, Hitesh suggested that we should take the bike to the service centre for a wash; that way it would function smoothly. I found this funny but clearly Hitesh knows his bike well. We did as he said, and the bike did run well.

Our next pit stop was Worli Fort.

Forts in Mumbai are Sewri Fort, Bandra Fort, Mahim Fort, Madh Fort. Sion Fort. Worli Fort. 

Caves in and around Mumbai are Mahakali Caves, Jogeshwari Caves, Mandapeshwar Caves, Kanheri Caves and Elephanta Caves

Arnala Fort

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Arnala Fort is built on an small island which can be accessed by a ferry from Arnala village. Arnala Village is located 10 KM away from Virar Railway station and around 14 KM away from Vasai Railway station on Western line. St. Peter's Church is also located here.

Old lighthouse near Arnal Fort

I saw the photos of Arnala fort on the Internet. The fort was in good condition, so I decided to pay a visit to it. This fort is also known as Jaldurg (literally sea-fort in Hindi) or Jangire- Arnala. This fort was built by a local chieftain from Gujarat and later owned by the Portuguese colonials.

St Peter's Church at Arnala Village

I asked my friend Hitesh to accompany me, I met Hitesh when I was in the 10th grade. Since both of us like trekking I asked him to join me in exploring the fort, and he agreed. So we decided that we would go to see the fort on a Saturday.

Lighthouse and Arnala Fort in a distance

Come Saturday morning, we boarded a fast train to Virar from Andheri Station on platform 4, alighted at Virar and boarded the ST bus to Arnala Village. Share and private rickshaw's also ply to the fort.It took us 35 minutes to reach the village. Alternatively Arnala Village can also be reached by ST bus from Vasai ST bus stand located outside Vasai railway station. No share rickshaw's are available from Vasai station.

Bastion at Arnala Fort

Arnala Market was the last stop for the bus and that is where we alighted. The market was packed with people. Smell of fish lingered all around. There was a Church nearby. St. Peter's Church. We entered the church, sat inside silently for some time and then headed out to see the fort.

Entrance to Arnala Fort

Fortification of Arnala Fort

We had to walk through narrow gullies surrounded by the houses of the local fisher folk on our way to the ferry wharf. Arnala fort, being a sea-fort, is in the middle of the water. This fact was not known to us earlier and it took us by surprise to know that we would need to go through waist-deep water to board the ferry. Our trousers were going to be wet. But we had not come all this way just to be put off by the fear of getting wet. As a lot of people stay on the island, the ferry was packed with more people than it could carry. But it was just the two of us who made it to the fort. Clearly the fort is not a must-see item on the agenda of tourists.

Fortification of Arnala Fort

Finally after 20 minutes, we reached the entrance of the fort. The fort was in very good condition. It has a hexagonal shaped water reservoir, temples and tombs. The main door of the fort is carved. It has a few bastions on it. It took us around 2 hours to see the entire fort along with photo shoots, of course.

Light House at a distance from Arnala Fort

Water tank at Arnala Fort

There is a lighthouse nearby which is around an hour’s distance from the fort. Unfortunately, there is no proper entrance to it. So we had to satisfy ourselves with looking at it from the outside.

Temple within Arnala Fort

Arnala Beach from Arnala Fort

The trek had tired us out considerably. Finally at the end of the day, we boarded the ferry and headed back to Arnala village and from there headed home.

Other sea forts I have visited are Murud Janjira, Alibag Fort and (Khanderi and Undheri )Forts in Alibag and Sindhudurg in Malvan. 

Gilbert Hill in Mumbai (Andheri W)

Gilbert Hill is located in Andheri (W) closeby to Andheri Railway Station and Bhavan's College.


I was enjoying the view from the 9^th floor of my brother’s flat in Andheri (West) when I espied in the distance an interesting rock formation surrounded by buildings all around. I googled the same (Thank God for Google maps) and got to know that the rock formation goes by the name of Gilbert Hill.

Gilbert Hill is 197 feet tall and is made up of black basalt rock. Its vertical face was formed when the molten lava was squeezed out from its clefts. It has been around for nearly 65 million years. Quite some time now.

Gilbert Hill

Another structure of the same type is located in USA and is called Devil’s Tower.

I asked Shailesh, a friend of mine who is not keen on going on outdoor trips. So I wanted him to accompany me on an easy trip. I asked him to join me on a visit to this structure. We boarded a BEST bus to Gilbert Hill from Andheri station, bus no. 250. From there we decided to walk to the base of the fort.

Stairway to Gilbert Hill

The staircase which leads to the top of the fort has been newly built and is very steep. Shailesh was quite tired on the upward climb. Finally we reached the top. There are two Hindu temples and a small garden in the fort. The hill offers a panoramic view of suburban Mumbai.

I was surprised to see that there is a structure like this in my backyard. Unfortunately, the land around the area has been taken over by the builder community and the area is seeing a lot of construction. I was not happy to see that new buildings blossoming around in the area.

View from Top

It took us around 30 minutes to see it. Later we decided to descend and head home.