Kaldurg Fort

Saturday, August 25, 2012

The last time I visited Kaldurg fort, I could not reach the top. 

To read about Unconquered Kaldurg Fort Trek in Palghar

What a shame! But someone has rightly said, “Try, try, till you succeed!” I therefore decided to make yet another attempt to climb Kaldurg Fort.

This time I planned my trip with Aashish Chawla. I had met Aashish via my blog. He loves to read my posts and visit the places that I have visited.

We met a day before the trip to discuss the train timing and other details. We planned to board the 4.54 am train to Virar which lands at Virar at 5.50 am. This would give us enough time to board the Virar Dahanu shuttle at 6.15 am. In case we missed the 4.54 am train, we had a backup train to Virar at 4.58 am. These two trains are slow trains. I had told Aashish about the 5.20 am fast train to Virar which arrives at Virar at 6.10 am. But he put off the suggestion, saying that it would be a race against time to reach the Virar Dahanu Shuttle. If we missed this connecting train, we would have a long wait in store. The next train is after a gap of 1½ hours. So we decided to board the 4.54 am train.

I had told him that I had been to this fort before and that we had to discontinue the climb midway and so I had planned to do it again.

It appeared that things were not going to work out according to our plan. Read on to find out just how.

The next morning at 4.40 am, I was at the station near the ticket booking counter. I decided to call Aashish to confirm whether I should book the tickets. So I called him up. The phone rang and rang and then got disconnected. Had Aashish changed his mind about going on this trip? Why hadn’t he called me? I would not have woken up so early. I began to grumble to myself.

Kaldurg Fort in a Distance

Within two minutes, Aashish called back to say that he had just woken up and that he would reach the station within 15 minutes. He told me to book the tickets. The only hitch was that we would end up missing the 4.54 and 4.58 am trains. Our only bet was the 5.20 am train, which we had decided against because of the little time it would afford us between disembarking from one train and boarding another.

Nevertheless, I bought the tickets at a cost of Rs 15 per head and waited eagerly on platform no 4 where the fast train was supposed to arrive. How the guy managed to do it, I do not know, but he showed up just as the train arrived, and we managed to board the train after all.

Now we were hoping that we didn’t miss our Virar Dahanu Shuttle at Virar.

Our train arrived at 6.05 am at Virar. Aashish got out and began to run towards the platform. I followed suit. We had a lot of running to do. It was a close call. Finally after a lot of running, we boarded a decidedly ‘fishy’ smelling train and managed to get ourselves a place to sit.

Only to find out that the train left at 6.20 am. I told Aashish that we were destined to board the fast train, to which he readily agreed.

Aashish is 48 years old but has the spirit of a teenager. He was very active and I was shocked that he started trekking just a year ago. It was a privilege to trek with him.

At 6.47 am, we landed at Palghar station. We managed to get morning tea and vada pav for breakfast and then started off to the share-a-rickshaw stand to board our ride to Wagoba Mandir on the way to Manor.

 At 7 am, we were in the rickshaw, waiting for the rickshaw to be full so that we could have a head start. Finally after a 20-minute wait, the rickshaw was full. We were all cooped up like cattle, and the rickshaw driver was clearly bent on piling in more passengers than his vehicle could properly accommodate.

After a 20-minute ride in the congested rickshaw at a cost of Rs 15 per head, we were at the Wagoba Mandir.

Luckily there were few monkeys here; compared to the last time I was here. We wasted no time and decided to start with our trek.

Aashish and me up Kaldurg Fort

It was 7.45 am on my watch. We started climbing. The climb is vertical. Aashish told me that he has been to at least 25 to 30 forts and never has the climb been so vertical at the initial stage.

But we managed to motivate ourselves and kept going, taking small two-minute breaks in between and finally reached the basalt rock plateau in a record breaking 50 minutes.

Aashish immediately assembled some stones to mark the place as everything looked similar here. Trekkers’ instincts, I should say.

The last time I came here, we had reached this spot in two hours time, because we had gone down the wrong path. But this time we decided to take only the road going upward, ignoring the other roads.

The rock patch offers a good view of the land, the water bodies, the curvy road leading to Manor from Palghar and the Fort of Kaldurg up on the hill.

Now we had another question in our minds. There was a small gap in the rock that led to the top. We were hoping that it would not be the way to the fort. It looked difficult from here. Imagine what it would be when we neared it?

But that did not stop us; we took a 30-minute break and started on the tricky journey upwards.

Walking on the narrow trails, mainly comprising loose mud, we finally reached the place where we had given up.

From there we followed the up-down, inside curve, outside curve, mud, stones and loose mud trail to the top of the fort and at 10 am we were at the top.

This is the highest point in Palghar. All the other hill ranges were far below this one.

View fo Palghar from Kaldurg Fort

The feeling of accomplishing something that we couldn’t do is truly amazing. Its only after you fail once that you appreciate the true meaning of achievement.

Not much remains of this fort today. A wall comprising five stone bricks is all that can be called a fortification. The top part is made of huge rocks that appeared to us as the fortification from the basalt plateau. I guess the shape and the colour is what made us think of it as the wall.

We could locate three rectangular shaped cutouts in the rock. These are water tanks which had dried up. They were not too deep. There is no water supply on this fort. So if you are planning your trip in the summer, carry at least three litres of water.

Unfortunately, some ignorant fools had written their names all over the rock surfaces. Idiots. When will they learn?

This is actually a watchtower as it provides an amazing view of the land below. The water bodies nearby, the roads from Palghar to Manor and the factories in Palghar.

We sat on the rocks and ate Aashish's egg parathas, while enjoying the cool breeze.

Then it was time for the climb down. While the ascent was difficult, I realised that climb down would be even more treacherous. Somehow I am not too confident when it comes to walking on loose soil.

Aashish was there, supporting me and guiding me down the cliff as we started the descent at 10.30 am. We reached the basalt rock plateau at 11.20 and after taking a 15-minute break we were down at the temple at 12.20 pm. We had managed to climb up and down in four hours. Kudos to us.

At the temple we had a splash in the water from the hand pump. After refreshing ourselves, we saw an ST bus approaching. We signaled it to stop and boarded it and alighted at Palghar station. The fare of the ST bus is cheaper than the rickshaw, as it cost us just Rs 14 (for both).

The frequency of the ST bus is lesser than the rickshaw, so people commute more by rickshaw and travelling in that congested rickshaw is a pain. Travelling was so much fun in the empty bus.

Me atop the Fort

After having our lunch, we were at the station waiting for our train which was scheduled at 2.45 pm. It was the Virar Dahanu Shuttle that was going to take us to Virar.

We killed time talking to fellow passengers. They could not believe that we had come to Palghar to see a fort. Then Aashish pointed out the fort to them. Why this fort, was their next question. Aashish told them that we love to do such stuff that involves breaking of hands and legs; it gives us great joy. Ha-ha

Finally the train arrived and we were at Virar and from there boarded a train to Andheri and from there - home.

We got everything right on this trek. We didn’t get lost on the hills; we boarded the train that we had planned to board, and everything went smoothly. The heat was not that strong to exhaust us so we managed to pull off this trek in half a day.

A big thank you to God who was with me on this trek.

Finally I can say that I have conquered Kaldurg with Aashish. Next in the line of fire is Mahuli. Why? Because it remains unconquered.

Unconquered Kaldurg Fort Trek in Palghar

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

I had planned to go to Alibag to trek up Kulaba and Sagargad forts. However, just a day before our planned trip, I learned from Hithakshi that The Navy Day Parade was to be held at the Gateway of India from where the ferries ply to Alibag.  Speaking to the ferry operators, I found out that the ferries would leave as usual in the morning but that there would be no return trips to Mumbai in the evening. We would be forced to return by way of road transport which would be overburdened in the absence of the ferries. 

Later Hithakshi suggested that we go to Kaldurg fort, based in Palghar, around 1500 feet above sea level. We had planned to see this fort earlier but things had not worked out then. So we decided to go to Kaldurg.

Sherwin and I met at Andheri railway station and boarded the 6:23 am train to Virar. Hithakshi boarded the same train at Bhayandar. The train was packed with people.  At Virar, we planned to board the Dahanu Shuttle that would take us to Palghar.

We reached Virar at 7:20 am. The train to Dahanu was supposed to leave Virar at 7:40 am. The indicators showed no sign of the train. My clock struck 7:40 hrs and still there was no sign of the train. All of a sudden we became aware that there was an outstation train standing on the adjoining platform.

Kaldurg Fort in a distance

We immediately decided to board this train. Had we taken the foot overbridge, we might not have made it to the train. So, on Sherwin's suggestion, we decided to cross the tracks to board the train.

In hindsight, I realize that that was a wrong thing to do. No matter how hard pressed for time one is, it is never a good idea to cross the train. It is highly dangerous and one can lose one’s life. However, in the heat of the moment, all we could think of was that the train that we had to catch was waiting on another platform and might pull off at any moment.

The coach we boarded was meant for the employees of the railways. So we were informed by the people who were in the train. They warned us to board another compartment or else the TC would penalise us.

I decided against changing compartments and we travelled to Palghar in the same compartment. Finally at Palghar, we alighted from the train, safe and sound.

Group  Photo - Sherwin, Hithakshi and Me

After having vada pav for breakfast, we checked out the various modes of transport that would take us to Kaldurg Fort.

Strangely, you will not find any vehicle to take you to Kaldurg on the eastern side of the railway line, even though Kaldurg is located in the east. On the western side, there are ST buses and tum tums available.

We boarded a tum tum to Wagoba Mandir, the base point from where the trek to Kaldurg starts. The cost of a ticket to Wagoba Mandir by ST is Rs. 7 per head and by tum tum; the fare is Rs.10 per head. It takes around 25 minutes to reach the Temple.

Sitting right behind the driver in the tum tum, I observed that we were bidding farewell to Palghar city and entering the village. The sound that the tum tum made was soothing to my ears and it reminded me of the movies that used to feature on television when I was a kid, in B/W format.

Wagoba Mandir

Near the temple there is a small refreshment store serving cold drinks and dry snack items. If you haven’t picked up food and water for the trek, then this is the last place where you can do so. 

The temple is infested with monkeys. They are all over the place. On our way here we had not caught a glimpse of a single monkey, and all of a sudden there were too many to count here.

Behind the temple, there is a water hand pump. That is the landmark from where the actual trek to Kaldurg begins.

Hithakshi had checked out some internet sites which had claimed that we would reach the top in 45 minutes. Forty-five minutes meant that this would be an easy trek. That is what I told myself and we planned to see Kohoj too as it was nearby. So if it took only 45 minutes to see the forty, we should be able to make good time. Due to the thick forest, we were unable to see the fort.

Water Hand Pump

The owner of the refreshment shop also said that the uphill climb would take 45 minutes. Now villagers are not to be relied upon for their timings. What seems to take them 15 minutes will take us upwards of an hour. So their calculations on time should not be taken into consideration.

We started climbing via the narrow trails up to the fort. As none of us had any idea about the fort, trial and error was the only method to be followed to reach the top. Wherever we came across multiple trails we decided to follow each of them for 5 minutes to see where it led. Also, as we couldn’t locate any directions or markings on the trail, we began looking out for wrappers as many people have a habit of eating on the way and throwing the wrappers right there.

Whenever you go out for treks or outings, please do not dispose of waste wrappers up on the hills. Take them home with you and dispose them in the dustbin.

We trekked through the thick forests and balanced ourselves on the narrow trails. At one spot where we were standing, there was an ant hill, home to millions of red ants. Unknowingly, I stepped on it and the ants attacked me; they were all over my pants. Now I didnt notice it but Sherwin did and he told me, "Merwyn, ants on your pants." I said, "What? Where?" I tried to get them off me and finally after a long battle of 10 minutes I managed to get them off me.

Ant Hill

We found many such ant hills on the way. So if you ever go along this trail, stay away from those ant hills. Or else you’ll pay for it the way I did.

We finally landed up on a huge rock patch in the middle of nowhere and decided to rest there for a few minutes. Now this place is quite high up. The entire city of Palghar can be seen in the distance from here.

From here, we saw the fortification of Kaldurg fort in the distance with a flag right on top. I immediately told Sherwin and Hithakshi about it and that we needed to reach there. It took us around 1½ hours to reach the rock surface and to trek to the fort. I figured that it would take us another two hours to get there. I wonder how the villagers manage to reach anywhere in 45 minutes. It is truly a mystery.

We then started on our trek again via the dense forest and kept walking along the narrow trails.

After walking for 30 minutes, we thought we were lost up in the hills. We were trying to find a way to go up the fort and finally we managed to find one and...

Red Ants on the Plant

Hithakshi's legs gave in. I guess she was scared and was afraid of falling off the cliff. Her legs trembled. Looking at her plight, we decided to take a quick call as to whether we should go up or not.

We then reached a mutual understanding and decided to head back as we didnt want to take any risks. We could surely do this fort another time, if not today.

We reached the same rock patch and had our snacks and water there. We later shared our travel experiences with each other and decided to head back to the base.

Again our speed was slowed down because Hithakshi was afraid to go down the hills. On the way down we noticed silver coloured foils wrapped around the twigs of the trees.

We rested at the small shop near the temple and had some refreshments there. There is a big crowd of monkeys and even a bigger crowd of people there to feed them. No wonder they all flock there. 

Cob Webs

The lady too said that it would take around 45 minutes to reach the top. Maybe we followed the wrong path and got lost. God alone knows. We then boarded an ST bus to Palghar station.

From there we boarded a passenger train to Virar station. Now the train was packed and the only place we managed to get ourselves a place to stand was next to the loo. The loos stink badly, and even though instructions are put on the doors of the stalls, warning passengers not to use them when the train is stationary, people will still go ahead and use them. The smell of pee is awful and suffocating.

I was near the exit door so the stink didn’t affect me much as compared to what Hithakshi and Sherwin had to go through. Finally at Virar we boarded a Churchgate local and headed home.

We could not scale Kaldurg fort this time, but we’re going to be back. And next time, we will definitely make it.

To read about conquered Kaldurg Fort.