Return journey to Mumbai from Burhanpur

Friday, July 7, 2017

After visiting the Graves of Tota Maina, we were dropped to the main road. Mr. Taide, helped us get a rickshaw to Hotel Madhuvan. 

Lunch at Sattar Mutton Hotel

Sattar Mutton Hotel

The rickshaw don't function as per metre and can charge you any amount. Be ready to bargain to get the best deal. The rickshaw driver initially quoted Rs. 140, but when Mr.Taide intervened, he had to settle for Rs.70.

He took us via the narrow bylanes and finally dropped us at Hotel Madhuvan. The time was around 1:15 PM on my watch.

Falooda at Khan Bhai Coldrinks

Khan Bhai Coldrinks

We still had Ahukhana, Gurudwara, Jama Masjid Gosiwada Zainabad, Chudhi Wali Masjid. We couldn't cover these places in the next five hours. So we decided to take the rest of the day off. 

We had a hearty meal at Sattar Mutton Hotel. Followed by Falooda at Khan Bhai Colddrinks. The Falooda was at par with the one I had at Badshah near Crawford market in Mumbai.

That's us on a Tonga

The tonga

We picked up some mutton samosa and mutton cutlet for our return journey.

Fathima wanted to travel by Tonga (horse cart) back to Burhanpur Railway Station. Tonga bought back memories of the Tonga ride I had at Jaora in Madhya Pradesh. To which I readily agreed. We paid Rs.50 for the ride. It took us a little less than 30 minutes to reach Burhanpur Railways station.

We located the national flag swaying in the wind while travelling in the tonga.

At the station we learnt that our train to Mumbai. Kushinagar Express is delayed by an hour's time. Meaning the train would leave at 7:20 PM instead of 6:20 PM.

We picked up some Paratha's and Mawa Kali Jalebi and the Kali Jalebi for dessert post our dinner on the train.

The Kushinagar Express finally arrived at 7:20 PM at Burhanpur Railway Station. It halted just for 2 minutes and then departed. We boarded our compartment, the train compartment was dirty. I guess the people have made it dirty . Not sure why people, do such things.

Kaala Jalebi, finger licking good

We ate our dinner and then we went off to sleep Early to bed, early to rise. The train terminated at Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) at 3:44 AM. Though the train was late at Burhanpur, it reached LTT on time.

I was so happy that we got to see so many new places in Madhya Pradesh. All this at a total cost of just Rs.4k .

Stay tuned for our next trip to Burhanpur to cover all the places we skipped on this trip

Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Wednesday, June 28, 2017

After crossing by the Unknown Tombs we reached the Mazaar of Tota Maina. 

Entrance to the Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

There is a fort like entrance to reach the Mazaar.

Tombs of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

Tombs of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

The Mazaar premises is painted white in color. There are a couple of graves there. The Maulana showed us the grave of Tota Maina. They were two birds who use to live there. The saint who lived there was very fond of the birds. I don't recollect the name of the saint. The Maulana told us a story, not sure if it is true or if it is modified version of the actual story. Hence have not posted it here.

Information on Mazaar of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

The heat was killing us, we then moved out of the Mazaar premises. Mr. Taide then arranged a rickshaw for us, who could drop us back to the hotel.    

Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, June 26, 2017

As we traveled by Bike away from the Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah, we noticed these tombs on the way.

The tombs are painted white with a huge black dome atop it. There is no mention has to who had built them. These tombs have not been taken over by ASI.

Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

Unknown tombs on the way to Graves of Tota Maina in Burhanpur

Mr.Taide informed us that long ago this used to be a burial site, but very soon it is going to make way to a residential quarters (Basti in Hindi) The muddy patch would turn to tar roads.

In a few minutes we reached the Mazaar of Tota Maina

Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Friday, June 23, 2017

The Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah are located around 2 KM away from the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja. There is a muddy path that leads to it.

Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur

Directions for the same are tagged on Google maps.

Mr Chaudhari, who we had met at the Maqbara of  Begum Shah Shuja had already informed Mr. Taide another ASI executive posted at Maqbara of Nadir Shah that we would be visiting this place.

Maqbara of Nadir Shah

There is no sign of humans here, total wilderness. There is no provision for food and water either. Luckily we had very little water remaining and we were rationing the water. Both the Maqbara are built very close to each other.

The cenotaph in the middle belongs to Nadir Shah

There are plenty of unknown tombs here. Some of them had inscriptions on them, not sure if it is Arabic or Urdu.

Tombstone

The bigger tomb belonged to Nadir Shah. It is built on a podium. A series of steps leads one to the tomb door. He was the founder of the Faruqui Dynasty in the 15th century. The cenotaph  in the centre belongs to him. There are a couple of other cenotaph too, not sure who they belong too.

Maqbara of Adil Shah

There was also a Maulana aka priest there. He looks after the maintenance of these two Tombs. He too is unaware of the of the other cenotaph. The entrance to the tomb is under lock and key. The Maulana showed us around in the tomb.

The cenotaph placed in the middle with a blue chaddar on it belongs to Adil Shah

We then visited the Adil Shah tomb located a couple of feet away. This tomb was small in size. The cenotaph placed in the middle with a blue chaddar on it belongs to Adil Shah, not sure who the other cenotaph belong too.

Thats us, from the right, Mr Taide, Maulana and Me.

Mr. Taide, then gave us a lift on his bike to take us to Mazaar of Tota Maina. On the way, we located some unknown tombs. He was stunned, when heard that we had walked it all the way to this place from Kali Masjid in Burhanpur.

Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Thursday, June 22, 2017

The Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja in Burhanpur is located very close to the tombs of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah.

Entrance to the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

Directions to Adil Shah and Nadir Shah Maqbara are tagged on Google maps, one has to cross by the Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuza before reaching the other Maqbara.

Bilquis Begum was the wife of Prince Shah Shuja. He was the son of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz. Bilquis Begum died after giving birth to her daughter. A Maqbara was built for her in Burhanpur.

Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

The main entrance to the Maqbara is currently closed. So one has to enter the premises by climbing over the broken wall. There is also another way to enter the premises.

We met Mr. Chaudhari there, who works with the ASI. He is closely looking into the re development or renovation of this Maqbara.

Cenotaph at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

The Maqbara, had a very different look to it, something very unusual to the ones I have been so far. The dome of it made of black stone looks like a watermelon cut into half and placed atop it. It looked like pillars were cut in half and the same were used to construct the Maqbara. There is a window places on one side from where one can see the cenotaph inside. Strangely the window had a glass. There is a small door to enter the Maqbara premises. The door was opened to us and we stepped in to see it.

The artwork at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

The walls of the Maqbara were beautifully painted from the inside. The intricate paintings were worth seeing and photographing. The paintings from the dome have peeled off. but the walls are intact.

This is a good place to meditate as there is no one around to disturb you. This place is totally isolated.

The ceiling of Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

We could spot the Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah from here.

Mr. Chaudhari and Me at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

There is no provision for food and water here. 

Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Akbari Saari is located in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. It was around 450 metres away from Kali Masjid. The route is tagged on Google maps , so you just can't get lost.

Within Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The entrance to Akbari Saari has been re plastered. Again It had a Darwaza to enter its premises. It had only one door to enter and exit. 

The Sarai was rectangular in shape, with the door placed on one of the sides. 

Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

The history of the Sarai, is put up on this board, if you can read and understand then do post the same in the comments section. This place was built by Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana. Not sure when it was constructed.

Entrance to Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

There were identical looking rooms with small domes all around the walls of the Sarai. These are currently not occupied and in ruins.   

Newly constructed door to Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

  

Within Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Currently pigs have made them their home. 

History of Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

I am sure ASI will surely work on the re development of this place and make it tourist destination.

Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Goats in Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

There is no provision for food and water at this place.

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, May 29, 2017

The Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid is located on the Qila Road, in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. 

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The Kali Masjid was located very close to Hotel Madhuvan. So close that we could see the Minaret and Masjid Walls from our room. 

We had breakfast in the form of vada's, bread cutlet and Kali Jalebi at Milan Mithai, located close to Hotel Madhuvan. Pls note that breakfast items are sold only in the morning. The snacks here are finger licking good. 

Milan Mithai near Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

We then headed over to entrance to Kali Masjid. The walls of the Masjid look like that of a fort. Made of black stone. It had a nice border atop the walls. The two Minarets placed at two ends were beautiful. 

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

Near the entrance of the Masjid are many shops. The Entry to the Masjid is via a Darwaza. The Darwaza had a Chor Darwaza (Small Door) in it. Looks like we were entering a fort premises. 

I looked up and so the ceiling and it was beautifully painted.
There is water to clean ones legs on the right as we enter. 

Entrance to Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The design on the ceiling, I was talking about.

The Masjid stood in front of us. It was very beautiful. At two ends stood two Minarets. Entry to the top of it is restricted. It appeared to me, like the Masjid didn't have a ceiling.

The Masjid was built by Adil Shah Faruqui somewhere in the 16th century. 

Place to wash the feet at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

There was hardly anyone at the Masjid. The pillars of the Masjid are in Symmetry, plus want was interesting is that the fans had a white bulb fitted to it. It served two purposes, provide breeze and also light at night. 

Symetrical pillars at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

We were not able to spot the Caretaker, as we wanted to see the Tasbeh, rosary made from thousand beeds of Olives. If you do a google search then you should be able to see a photo of it. 

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

That's us at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The Masjid premises was calm and quiet. I felt at peace here. The cool breeze blowing , the sound of the leaves of the tree was like music to my ears. I wished to spend more time here, but as we were short of time , we moved out to go see the Akbari Sarai located a couple of meters away.

Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh in India

Monday, April 24, 2017

Burhanpur is a small city in Madhya Pradesh. It is around 500 KM away from Mumbai city in Maharashtra. It is located very close to the Maharashtra Madhya Pradesh border.

Burhanpur was ruled by various dynasties in the course of time. Rashtrakuta Dynasty, The Faruqi Dynasty, The Moghuls and finally the Marathas. 

There are a lot of historical sites in and around Burhanpur which are a must of history lovers. 

The important places are Asirgarh fort, Shahi Qila, Kundi Bhandara, Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Burhanpur is known for its textile industry. As we travelled in the interiors of the city, we could hear the sound of the machines. Most houses have power looms within their premises. Small scale industries.

Fathima told me that entry and exit from Burhanpur town is via a Darwaza. Meaning the entire town is built in fort like premises with walls surrounding it. Interesting . Something similar to Vasai fort near Mumbai. 

Burhanpur has got both retail and wholesale shops, selling clothes, grains and other articles. 

There are many places to stay and eat here. We stayed at Hotel Madhuvan (lodging only). The food in Burhanpur is extremely cheap and good. We tried at Rehmaniya Restaurant and Sattar Mutton Hotel. They serve both Veg and Non Veg (Chicken and Mutton). What about beef? I asked.

The hotels won't serve you beef but the roadside small sizes eateries will serve you beef samosa and beef cutlet. Yummy and very economical cost wise. No side effects on the next day either. 

The beef will surely make my trip complete. Jaora is another city in Madhya Pradesh where I went crazy eating beef. 

As we had come from Mumbai, we had a tough time getting signals on our Vodafone SIM cards in and around Burhanpur. 

We had a few more places on our itinerary for the next day.

Dargah-e-hakimi located in Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, April 17, 2017

Dargah-e-Hakimi is located in  Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Dargah-e-Hakimi road to reach it.
After being disappointed at Kundi Bhandara, we travelled around 7 KM to reach Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Syedi Abdul Qadir Hakimuddin (1665 - 1730 AD) is the holy saint of the Bora Community. He was buried in Burhanpur. His grave is visited by pilgrims all year round. 

The Dargah-e-Hakimi complex comprises of Mosque, gardens and accommodation for the pilgrims. 

Dargah-e-hakimi

Non Bora Community members are also allowed in the Dargah premises. They have to cover their heads. The Dargah premises was packed with people. 

The domes of the Mosque's are beautifully designed. All the three mosques are white in color. The white colored mosque and the blue color skies made the picture perfect.

Though there were so many people seated there, not a sound could I hear. There was silence. A nice place to be at peace with oneself. 

After Fathima offered prayers, we then headed out of the premises to have some snacks in the form of samosa's and meat cutlets. 

The time was 6 PM on my watch and we had to hunt for a place to stay for the night. We decided to head to Burhanpur town for accommodation. 

After checking a couple of places we finally settled down for Hotel Madhuvan located very close to the Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur. 

The rooms were not that great.But that didn't bother us much as we are travelers and we were there to visit historical sites, instead of staying in the room. The room cost was Rs.600 for a double bed non AC. We didn't take AC rooms as it was cold there. The good thing about this hotel is that the checkout time is 24 hours from the time one checks in. Nice na. As we checked in at 6:30 PM on Friday evening, we were to checkout at 6:30 PM on Saturday evening. 

We paid the rickshaw driver Rs.1200 for showing us around.

Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Kundi Bhandara is located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Kundi Bhandara Road to reach it. 

Information on Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

After visiting Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri, we headed by rickshaw to Kundi Bhandara. The route details are tagged on Google maps. It is around 14 KM away. Though it is much closer from Burhanpur. 
As we were approaching this place,  the rickshaw driver showed us small wells by the side of the roads. He informed us that there are many such wells around Burhanpur. There are a total of 103 wells. The first one is for Air and the others for water. The depth of these wells ranges from 30 feet to 80 feet.

We saw these unknown tombs on the way to Kundi Bhandara

The Kundi Bhandara aka underground water management and distribution system, was formed when Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana in 1615 AD. This system of water distribution was in use in Iran and Iraq. It helped in distributing clean and pure water to the citizens of Burhanpur. 

Kundi Bhandara premises, the lift which goes underground is blue in color in the centre of the photo

Kundi Bhandara is not in use now. But it was used extensively in its hay days. i.e. atleast 3 centuries. 

Information on Kundi Bhandara

There is a small lift that takes one to the bottom of the underground system. But sadly that day it was under maintenance so we couldn't see it from the inside. I was informed by the rickshaw driver that it is dark in there and that one needs a good torch to see it. It is also filled with water. 

Wells located all over Burhanpur

Disappointed that we couldn't see it its functioning, we headed to Dargah-E-Hakimi in Burhanpur.