Mahuli

Sunday, March 23, 2014

After my last failed attempt in conquering Mahuli Fort, I took a vow that I would be back to conquer it again and so here I am. In my blog about unconquered Mahuli Fort I listed the reason that led to my downfall and so decided not to repeat the same on this trip.

Mahuli fort is around 2815 ft above sea level. It is located at Asangaon, around 91 km from Mumbai on the Central Railway Line on the Kasara side. This is the highest point in the Thane District. The forest around Mahuli Fort is a Sanctuary.  Alternatively by road, it is on the Mumbai-Nashik Highway. Manas Mandir is located very close to Mahuli Base Village.

Kintan came up with this plan to conquer Mahuli as he too was eyeing it for the last three years. And as always we spread the word amongst our friends and finally it was just the two of us who originally agreed on it, who ventured out to conquer Mahuli.

We chose the monsoon as the rains has just set in Mumbai and that it would be cooler in Mahuli and that we would not have a problem and heat.

As decided on Whatsapp, I boarded the last local at 0:33 hours local to Kasara from Dadar and Kintan joined me at Mulund Station.

On my way to Mahuli on a foggy morning

Though this was the last train plying on the Kasara line it was comparatively empty in comparison to the last local to Karjat, which is jam packed.

As we crossed Kalyan the weather was quite cool. Though there was no sign of rain and we were enjoying the ride in the train. It was just the two of us in the compartment. All of a sudden Kintan got up from his seat and started turning off the fan switches, when asked he said, “Lets save the Railways some money on the electricity bills” I was impressed. Infact we should all switch off fans when not in use. Now you will ask me why not the lights. We can’t do that as the switch of the lights is located in the motorman’s cabin.

At 2:17 am the train was finally at Asangaon Railway Station. We had planned that we would start trekking in the morning and so we decided to take a short nap on the platform.

There was another group of 3 more trekkers who too came with the intention of conquering Mahuli.

We then roamed on the platform hunting for a place to lay down our sheets for our nap. Most of the best places were already occupied.

Mahuli range in a distance

Finally we got a place. Kintan opened his bag and too my surprise he pulled out a foldable mat and an air blown pillow. I was stunned to see it. As trekkers usually come with sleeping mat and sleeping bags. He at least had that; I didn’t have either but a few sheets of Economic Times.

Wow the big bag accommodates all this, wondering what more surprises come out of it. Reminds me of the magician’s hat.

Now we had 2.5 hours to take a short nap and then head out of the station. As I was about to fall asleep suddenly I heard a noise and it was growing closer and suddenly it honked and in a fraction of a second an outstation train zoomed ahead waking me up.

Never mind that was just one and the last one and I tried to sleep again, when I was attacked by mosquitoes. They were quite irritating so I decided to switch on the Anti Mosquito application on my android phone. To an extent they stopped hovering around me and the effects of the application were short lived and mosquitoes surrounded me again and to top it more and more outstation trains zoomed on either side of the platform making it difficult to sleep. So here I was a nocturnal animal all awake on the station.

Soon Kintan too joined me as he too was not able to sleep. We then decided to walk out of the station to the rickshaw stand. As it was now 4:30 am the crowd was gathering for the first local to arrive at 4:51 for CST. Kintan then inquired with a few locals regarding the rickshaw availability and the cost for the same. We got mixed reactions from the crowd about the rickshaw.

We had tea at an outlet outside the station at the cost of Rs.5 each.

Finally the ladder that takes one atop Mahuli

We finally exited and striked a deal with the rickshaw driver standing there. Rs .250 to take us to Mahuli Temple. The last resort before the Fort. We turned around to see the other group but they had already exited out of the station. So it was just the two of us.

The reason why the cost is so high is because the driver would charge us for the return journey too as he would have to come back empty. We still exercised our option and boarded the rick.

It took us around 30 minutes to reach the Temple. The road was good till Manas Mandir later the condition of the road worsened. It was a bumpy rollercoaster ride. At certain places there was water filled in the road. Kintan had to then check the water level by throwing stones in it and then we moved ahead. The rickshaw driver predicted that it would rain heavily that day. And we were hoping that his predictions turnout to be true.

As we reached the temple we were greeted by the Pujari (Head of the Temple) who asked us if we would like to have some tea. How nice of him to ask us for the same. But as we had, had our tea we started on our journey at 5:55 am.

Mahuli Village is located at a distance of 2 km from the Mahuli Temple.

Kintan and Me atop Mahuli

The temple was full of trekkers who had come the night before and were sleeping in its premises. Good we had not come here earlier or else we wouldn’t get to sleep at all as it was totally congested inside.

There are proper arrows marked on stones so that one doesn’t get lost on the way to Mahuli and religiously followed the arrow marking. A group named Raaje Pratisthan has redone the arrow marking on the trek.

The atmosphere was superb. All cloudy and the peaks covered with dew all over, an amazing site to see.

On the way we were greeted by mosquitoes and other insects that refused to let us go and kept biting us all the way up to the fort. Firstly there was no rain so it was getting hotter; we were sweating and now the insects to add to our agony.

No wind or breeze till we reached half way up. Finally we were greeted by breeze. That was the best feeling so far. We sat down to enjoy the breeze when suddenly the dew started clearing and we could see the pinnacles standing in front of us. Awesome, Truly Awesome.

The climb as steep in certain places full of rocks, loose soil, slippery soil but that didn’t stop us from reaching our summit.

Aeoo Aeoo is the code used by trekkers to communicate with each other as it travels faster the Help and can be easily heard from a distance as per Kintan.

Remnants on the fort

We kept motivating ourselves and took our time to climb up the fort; we crossed three small hill ranges to reach Mahuli. Finally at 8:55 hours after three hours of climbing we were at the ladder that lets us climb up the walls of the fort.

Though the weather was dewy there was not a drop of rain, but the soil was still moist.

We had a few foto sessions and then headed off atop a cliff to have our breakfast in the form of chakklis and biscuits. From atop there we could not see any other hill range nor the valley below because the dew was so strong. It looked like we were walking in the clouds.

The dew droplets accumulated on the green grass was lovely and very refreshing to our eyes. I am guessing that it might have hardly rained and the fort and its surrounding were green all over. In my unconquered trip the grass had turned to hay, golden hay all around. What a shift. Amazing.

Now we had decided that we could descend the fort at 1:00 pm and we had three hours to see the fort in entirety.

Without wasting any time we finished our breakfast and started on our mission. There is very little fortification on the fort. Only near the ladder entrance can we see the fortification.

There are many paths here which can be walked upon to see the fort.

Remnants

We were the first atop the fort that day. There was a water body there filled with water. It had two XX marks near it. Kintan then educated me that, it means that the water is not portable. It is denoted by either a XX sign or a skull and two bones. Danger sign.

We then followed the path and it went straight down and let us to a tree which had a shiv ling places next to it. It had a few caves there and led us to the entrance of the fort via the Kalyan Darwaza.

Kalyan Darwaza had steps all the way up to the fort from the base but it was bombarded by the British and so this way is not access able. But there are a few professional trekkers who come up via this route.

There are a few inscriptions carved on huge stone blocks lying there.

As the Kalyan Darwaza is not access able by all hence alternative route via the ladder was designed to enter the fort. No idea as to who built the metal ladder there. A big thank you to him for the same.

After viewing the ruins and we headed off on the path not knowing where it leads too. We kept walking on it for around 30 minutes. The path was leading somewhere, none of us knew where. The place was a jungle and a good location for shooting spooky films. As we were not heading anywhere we decided to return back. On the way we met some locals there. Around four of them. They were equipped with Catapults’ the moment they saw us approaching the started hiding it. I guess they are up to something I told Kintan. Maybe hunting for birds there. This place is full of exotic birds, flowers and insects. After inquiring with them they told us that this way led to Palasgad. One of the three forts atop here.

They told us that no trekker visits this place as there is nothing to see there, neither fortification nor any ruins.

Steep climb on the way to Palasgad.

But we could view it from where we were standing and decided to head back to the Kalyan Darwaza.

Now we were not alone on the hill. Instead of the rain pouring in people were pouring in. Kintan told me that atleast three trekking groups are planning a trip to Mahuli today so he estimated around 60 other people on the hilltop.

After a few inquiries with the other trekkers we followed another path that would lead us to Bandargad. They told us that if would take us around 45 minutes to reach the end of this hill and from there is a ladder to climb the other hill.

I guess this path is not used much by trekkers as we were the only ones on this path. We saw a few broken structures on the way. Huge stone blocks that had arrows other inscriptions on them. We walked on the path and finally reached the end of Mahuli and saw another hill there. Both the hills were joined by a piece of land and had valleys adjoining them.

A thin path lead to the other cliff. A small rickety staircase and then some rock climbing skills would take you up the fort. As both of us were bad at rock climbing we decided to sit and view it.

A little latter some locals came there equipped with catapults’ hunting for birds. We inquired with them and they told us that, it is the only way to go up the fort. Plus there is another way from the valley up to both the forts but that is used by the villagers as the climb is too difficult.

The villagers told us that atop Bandargad is located another Kalyan Darwaza and some broken monuments. God alone knows how much of it is true.

As we were about to leave we saw three locals atop Bandargad with huge sacks on their head. We were wondering how they would get down with that weight on their head. So we waited, after noticing no movement from there we headed off to the ladder at the entrance to have our lunch as we had to descend at 1:00 pm.

We had lunch in the form of dhokala with chutney and ketchup as add-ons along with chakklis and water to digest it all down.

We had ample water supply with us today, as both of us had carried two litres each, we were left with 2 litres to go.

Now Mahuli was getting packed with trekkers. There were around 100+ trekkers atop the fort. One of the trekking groups had come with 60 trekkers. Out of which some were atop and some far below. Wondering when the guys below would reach the top.

The return journey made me a little bit uneasy as the valleys were scaring me to the core making it difficult for me to trek down, Kintan was there to guide me down the hill and in two hours time we were down at the base.

We refreshed ourselves by bathing in a small stream and then headed off to have a chilled bottle of cold drink to quench our thirst followed by Poha.

We had walked for 9 hours in a row and our knees had suffered from the beating.

There is a refreshment store near the temple; we finally shared a mini man to get a ride to Asangaon station at 100 bucks on our heads.

Finally in 30 minutes time we were at Asangaon station for the 4:00 pm train only to find the train arrive at 4:15 pm. We got window seats.

We finally managed to conquer Mahuli and its neighbouring forts being Bandargad and Palasgad. Three for the price of one. Eeeeeehaaaaa.

We had a great time in Rs.275 per head.

Damages in the form of leg pains I will know tomorrow

What Next?

Sinhagad Fort

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Frankly speaking, I had gathered very little information about Sinhagad fort from the internet. I had liked the pictures I saw online. And that was enough for me.

Sinhagad is a Marathi word which means Lion’s Fort. This fort is around 30 km away from Pune. It is around 1350 meters above sea level. Not much is known about who built this fort. But it has been in the control of both the Marathas and the British.

On this trip, I was accompanied by Nimish, who had joined me on earlier treks, and Nelson, a first-timer.

We had to board a train to Pune station and from there take the State Transport bus to Sinhagad base village and then trek up the fort. Most sites online had told us that it would take around an hour to see this fort.

Children Exercising

We boarded the Pandharpur Fast Passenger train at Karjat at 1:15 am. As we had not made any reservations, we boarded the unreserved compartment. Pune can also be reached by road, but we decided to take the train as I love traveling by trains.

Most of the passengers were already fast asleep when we entered the coach. We made ourselves comfortable near the door of the compartment. We took turns, sitting at the door, to see the countryside sleeping in the dead of the night. As it was dark we could not see how deep the valleys were but we could see the countryside lit up in the distance.

As people alighted at their destinations, we took over their seats. Now we had ample space to sit and so we made ourselves comfortable. I was about to drop off to sleep when I heard a sound that made me wish  I was somewhere far away and not on this train.

Sinhagad from a distance

A group of eunuchs were working their way down the coach, harassing the passengers and demanding money. The menace of the eunuchs is something that only those who have been harassed by them will understand. They demand money, rather than beg, and if you refuse to give it, they will try to touch you just to annoy you into giving them

money to get rid of them.

They approached us and we quickly gave them money. But one of them wanted some more money and he began his dirty routine to extort money from us. It was an embarrassment hard to get over. There were five eunuchs in all and we were just three of us. Nimish was fine but Nelson and I had a tough time with one of the eunuchs. 

Donkeys atop the fort

Finally they alighted just before Pune. We thanked God for our escape. Our co-passengers had made no move to help us. They had just watched while the eunuchs harassed us. Later we learned that these eunuchs regularly travel up and down this train everyday and harass passengers into giving them money.

At 3:30 am we arrived at Pune station. At the bus depot, we asked people for directions to Sinhagad fort. We were flooded with mixed suggestions which made it difficult for us to reach a conclusion.

Things did not get any better when we asked the ST bus drivers and conductors for help. No two people gave us the same answers. We had been advised by the passengers not to take the rickshaws as they charged exorbitant rates at night. We wasted 3 hours at the bus stop.

View from the Darwaza

Then we met a bus driver, who advised us to board a bus to Swargate bus stop, and from there, board another bus to Sinhagad. God alone knows why I believed in him and did

as he said. But his suggestions saved the trip. At the Swargate bus stop, the

friendly bus stop manager gave us a lot of information about how we

should proceed on reaching Sinhagad.

We had our breakfast at the village. There was a small school near the eatery where we were having our breakfast. A group of children were performing morning warm up exercises. It was a nice sight to see.



Structure atop the Fort

We had poha (traditional Maharashtrian breakfast made of beaten rice flakes along with omelettes and tea). We then headed for the fort.

The climb from the base village was very steep and tiring. We managed to get up the main entrance of the fort in 2 hours time, having taken multiple breaks along the way.

The view from the top was beautiful. The valleys were deep and the hill ranges were covered with trees. A few horses and donkeys were grazing. Some village houses stood far away in the distance.



Horse stable filled with water atop the fort

The villagers had put up shacks on the way to serve refreshments. These included water, lemonade and buttermilk, fruits like Indian gooseberry (amla), guavas and raw mangoes sliced and seasoned with chilli powder and salt. It gave the fruits a very tangy and spicy taste, a real treat for the taste buds. We were on an eating and drinking spree up here, drinking lemon water at every other shack. Very soon, we lost count of how many glasses we had. Along the way, we also had amla, guavas and raw mangoes.

Those who don’t feel comfortable climbing can always hire a vehicle which can take you up in less than 30 minutes. But then you will forego the joy of trekking up a fort.  

Fortification

The roadway ends at the entrance of the fort. There are many hotels here which cater to food and beverage requirements. This fort has two doors or darwazas. The one we entered from was the Pune Darwaza and the other at the rear end of the fort was Kalyan

Darwaza.

At the entrance of the fort they are many villagers who gear up as guides to show you the important places on this fort. Some of them are dressed as Maratha soldiers of that era.

We decided to explore the fort ourselves. 

The Red Bush

As we were about to enter the fort from Pune Darwaza a herd of donkeys came rushing down the Darwaza in hurry. So we had to move aside or else we would have been knocked down by them. The donkeys were laden with gallons on their backs.

Some of the walls of the fort were still unbroken. It was hard to believe that they still stood strong after all these years. They were made of stone and kept together with cement.

There are two towers of Prasar Bharti on this fort. These towers intercept Doordarshan signals (Doordarshan is the national TV channel of India) and send it to all viewers on their home television antenna.

Entry to the Fort

The donkeys we encountered on the way up supply diesel to the operating rooms of these towers.

The fort houses two caves named “Ghodayachi Pama” meaning horse’s stables. There is a narrow entrance which takes you inside them. The pillars of the caves have been steadily getting eroded due to water seepage over the years. I think they could still hold on for the next 200 years. The caves could have housed around 40 horses. Unfortunately, the place was filled with water, in which floated plastic water bottles and plastic packaging of snacks.

When will people stop destroying our heritage with waste? Ideally they should carry all their waste back home and dispose it off in a garbage bin rather than leaving it behind on hills and forts, leading to land pollution and destroying the natural habitat.

Thats me in the yellow T-shirt, Flying Fox

There are many small temples here. I saw a tree with red leaves. It looked more like a big bush.

There were many water tanks or cisterns at a place called “Ganesh Taki.” Four of them of various sizes had been cut out in the rock. They were all polluted but there was one small one with plenty of guppy Fish.

The Kalyan Darwaza was also big and its bastions were in very good condition, This entrance is often used by trekkers. The Darwaza had carvings on the walls; one had the face of an elephant carved on it. Having seen all this, we walked on the walls to get a better view of the low-lying valleys below.

There was Flying Fox. Flying Fox means a cable fixed at two ends, one high and the other low, Goods and People can be transported via this, But on Sinhagad we transported ourselves from one end of the fort to another. We took our turns to enjoy this ride at just Rs 100 per head. It took us around 20 minutes to reach the start point but hardly 5 minutes to go down the ropeway. Oh, how I wish I could stop midway and enjoy the view with no earth beneath my feet. It was like flying without wings. I loved the feel and the thrill.

State of my shoes

After that we decided to head back home. It had taken us around 5 hours to see the fort. So much for those websites.

All the walking had badly affected our shoes. The soles were almost worn out. It took us around an hour to reach the base village. From there we headed to Swargate to board a Mumbai-bound bus.

In the bus, I recollected all the adventures we had had on this unplanned trip. It had all been very exciting and one of the high points had been the flying fox. Of course, the climb had been rather steep but we had managed thanks to the strong winds which kept us from perspiring.

It had been a great trip and we had the worn out shoes to prove it.